Most of this is all irrelevant here.
Best I know this is for a flight simulator thing, and it’s only going to switches and (PWM dimmable?) indicator lights. There is no SPI or other stuff to control, and neither are there clock signals to distribute.
Edit:
Or at least, I think so.
Maybe it going to be connected to that other big PCB and to the electronics on that, but I have not seen an overview of what it actually connects to.
Exactly and thanks, hadn’t had the force to make the long explanation.
Which is only partly true.
I’ve wondered for a long time why all those small microcontrollers do not go beyond 20MHz. Recently I saw a documentary about ASML, and they claimed that over 90% of the stuff they have made is still in use. So that is 30 to 40 year old wafersteppers still running production. If you have have fine mechanical stuff that receives regular maintenance and is not contaminated (even dust contaminates lubricants, but there is no dust in a clean room) then wear is almost non existant.
I’m guessing that a lot of the stuff that is clocked to a max of around 20MHz is still made on such old equipment, but die-shrinks also do happen. I noticed my atmel AVR controllers got a bit more fragile after a little revision change.
For such microcontrollers it also does not make much sense to use a higher density process, as most of the die will then be occupied by the pads for the wire bonding. The output transistors are also pretty big, and can’t be shrunk much.
On the other hand, Some (a lot?) of the newer and bigger microcontrollers have slew-rate control on their outputs.
Those modern electronics only get faster if they want them to be faster.
One of my first projects was a (windowed) Eprom programmer hanging off an LPT port with a bunch of logic TTL chips in between. It took me 2 days to figure out why it did not work, untill I soldered a capacitor of a few nF on the clock pin. The wiring picked up enough crosstalk though a 1.5m cable to falsely trigger the clock, and that was just old fashioned LS TTL in the '90-ies.
I have never heard anyone having problems connecting arduino to a shield for digital inputs and digital outputs?
I think we should not overstate the problem with that.
I maybe have to ask pokeys and ardunio about this?
This topic is starting to wander a bit. 
Most times these things take off from a valid concept and it is kinda hard to draw the line after awhile. But yes. I was on the Arduino forum a while back and there is quite the collection of good posters. Along with keyboard warriors who have never even seen an Arduino in person. Beware.
I am trying to modify the shield so the conections end up on the corect side, what do you think?
But it is very hard.
Shield for Pokeys and Arduino.zip (556.1 KB)
A bit curious where you got stuck…
Your zip file posted on 10:18 is not “stuck” at all, still plenty of room to route everywhere.
Your zip file posted on 11:11 you got yourself into trouble, but only a little bit. There is still plenty of room north of J1. By rerouting some of the nets in that area you make room in the congested area.
When you see via’s closely packed together and tracks hopping over and under each other, then it’s usually a sign that the routing is not done very well. You should always try to prevent area’s like:
This is what I came up with:
2022-05-29_Shield for Pokeys and Arduino.zip (493.7 KB)
I did put a bit of time in all this. If you think that’s worth something, then consider to:
But everything put together, routing a PCB like this is not very difficult. I’ve now shown you a few times it can be done and the only way for you to learn to do it yourself is by practicing, and developing a “feel” for what sort of things work and what does not work.
That other big PCB is a very bad project for a beginner. It’s much too big. If you already get stuck on a relatively simple PCB like this one, you’re not likely to finish the big one. I’m also not going to help much with the big PCB. It would take too much of my time and I do not have enough overview of what it actually does. Making that big PCB should start with an “architectural analysis” and what and how you should make. Sort of an extension of what I told you in my PM’s.
Thank you.
I donetade.
Was it intentional you did not route the ones that were left?
12V and so on.
Another question. Should I really feed the 5V back way into the arduino card?
I think I should supply 5 volts into the Pokeys and 12 volts into the arduino?
Then the question is a bit with the potentiometers.
You can have a separate ground for each pot as now. Or save places on dsub by not having separate power and ground for each pot.
I think the more copper the less loss.
Also what do you think about the placement of D-sub should I move them in some way?
What do you mean?
+12V is routed:
And the rest too:
I think you opened the wrong file. I checked and I did upload the right file.
I do not have an opinion about your other questions.
I do not know how you intend to use this board.
I do not know where the signals go to or what is on the other end of those wires.
I only know it is related to some kind of flight simulator project.
I do not like “arduino” and do not use them myself. I find both the size of the boards, the connector layout with the gaps and the idiotic java contraption they dare calling an “IDE” atrocious. If I want to use that processor I just put the processor itself on a PCB. I’ve been using the ATmega328 from years before “arduino” even existed, but have never used the bigger boards from them.
What is a corect way to open a zipped project?
I just click on them in the web browser, which puts them in “~/downloads/…” on my PC, then open a file manager, go to that directory, right click on the file and select “Extract Here” from the popup menu. Just normal every day OS file management.
If you’re juggling with several zipped versions of the same project however, then you may create conflicts. Maybe your OS tries to copy the files in an existing (older version) of the project or does not want to overwrite existing files. If you want to be sure, just create some directory with the name “awetgynaesefveypoijm” and extract your latest copy in that directory.
Using a date / time string in ISO_8601 may be a better option 
Hilarious. So I have a new name for junk directories.
I also quite often use “asdf” if I’m too lazy to type in a date.
I will show you what happened.
I think I chose from the menu wher I zped the file Ther is an option to import from zip.
When I do that I get a pop-up about selecting folder.
I think I created a new folder inside the folder wher I created the original shield.
I think I called the folder “1”.
What I expected to happen is that the project I was trying to open would open and replace all previous project files.
What is the purpus of importing a project from zip if you any way have to unzip old fashioned way and open project like an animal.
I expect when I zip a project, all files will be there. Custum footprint and symbols. Library’s and everything.
Then expect if I open a zipped project all files will be replaced that I have open at the time.
Not as it was now that I probably opened the old project without noticeing.
File>Unarchive Project?
Whell I did use the icon for “unarchive project”
So this is what I did?
What went wrong.
Was able to open the project at last.
Other question, it is a little related to the routing of tracks? Move footprint, do I have to redraw all tracks?
Why can I not grab foot print anymore?
It really does not matter to us what exactly went wrong.
Most users here are able to extract some files
But it’s easy to make a mistake that can go undetected for some time.
And it’s good it’s sorted out in the end.
D for Dragging footprints works quite nice for simple moves when there is a lot of room around it, but it does not work anymore for a footprint that is “locked in” by surrounding tracks. The best option is to make a selection of both the footprint and surrounding tracks and move them as a block. After the move you will have to fix the edges of the block.
Use the selection filter in the lower right corner of the screen, and turn on the checkbox before Footprints.
With a right-click in that window, you can also unselect all except the one you are pointing at.
