Update PCB from Schematic NOT Updating PCB

KICad, version 8.0.2

Experience Level: Beginner

I have a small schematic that I now wish to update into my PCB Editor, but…

no matter what process I perform, after clicking Update PCB > Close, I place the mouse crosshairs on the drawing surface;
I wait and nothing happens
I click my left mouse button, still nothing
I click my right mouse button, still nothing
I uncheck all Errors in the Update PCB from Schematic, the click Update > Close, click drawing surface, NADA

I even tried the steps in KICad Docs, and still receive nothing.

What am I missing??

What are the “update” options set at?

If only I could have an Update PCB from Schematic screen as clean…
My screen is a bit messier, but I am trying to clean it up (footprints).

So you definitely asked the wrong question. the Update PCB from Schematic [F8] seems to work as expected, but it’s task is limited. It does not “fix footprint issues”. You first have to fix those issues in the schematic first.

1 Like

So the issue is you haven’t specified what footprint to use in those parts that show errors.

In the schematic editor there is a tool where you tell Kicad what footprint to use for each part.

Thanks for the reply JohnRob. It was actually just prior to the comments by @paulvdh That I was missreading the Assign Footprints window. It was obvious that the errors marked as errors needed some work. But my down fall was thinking the other items marked as Processing, would actually process and display the footprint for that part. I didn’t realize that all FP’s needed correcting in some manner before placing on the screen.
I even found out some of the ones that showed promise were actually incorrect, until I fixed them

Processing is telling you what it does.
It checks to see if you have assigned a footprint to each symbol.
If you have assigned a footprint (that is available through the assigned path) it checks to make sure the number of pins in the symbol matches the number of pads in the footprint.

The readout is telling you:
It cannot find the footprints you have assigned to C1, C2, J2, J3 & J4.
You have yet to assign footprints to U1, U2, R1, R2, R3, etc.

SUCCESS, all the PCB parts are now assigned a FP, with the exception of one.

Took a bit of work, but got it.
The item missing a FP is the 4 contact switch at the top left (2 green, 1 red, and 1 black wire)

That symbol was one I created on my own. My intention was to solder the wires to 4 Thru Holes, or maybe use a 4 contact quick disconnect.
What other recommendations may the group have?

On to the next steps…

Here is a screenshot of the switch in question…

Screenshot 2024-05-10 at 10.14.27 PM

Just assign a 4-pin header footprint to the symbol, if you just want to solder wires to the switch.

I don’t like your symbol because it does not demonstrate the actions of the switch or the connections before and after switching. The switch also needs some pins assigned.

Eg. the below switches show exactly:
The normal position of the switch
Which pins are currently connected and which will connect when the switch in switched.

They do not need a written explanation.


To draw your schematic correctly (I may have used the wrong switch) you really need to draw something like the below:

As @3Dogs suggests, using the P1 will give you the four pads on the PCB for soldering your wires, otherwise your DRC will complain because you will place pads that have no pins in the schematic. You could also use four single pin connectors instead of a four pin connector.
S1 is shown because without this, ERC will complain because the wires from your switch are not attached to something.

To complete this, go into S1 & SW2 properties and tick them as “Exclude from Board”

Sorry, one last comment.

Is J1, the PJ-044AH a suitable plug/socket arrangement for the current it is to handle?

Data sheet shows Max. 24VDC & 5Amps.

What is the idea of your switch?
As shorting in your switch the J1 input seems having no sense than only what can be done with this switch is to put on the red wire:

  1. the voltage from J1 pin 1, or
  2. the voltage from J1 pins 2,3, or
  3. nothing.

Is that the intention of your switch?
If you show were red wire is going than may be my 1,2,3 list can be shorted.

Or may be J1 pins 2,3 are connected to it to power LED(s) in that switch?

Thank you @3Dogs and @jmk for your comments.

JMK, I went back and verified the power requirements for the board, and 15amps was specified. This is evidenced by the fact there is also a 15amp fuse on the main board, so I have made the correction. 24vdc - 15amp
Regarding my home grown symbol, you are correct, its BAD, but it worked as a Place-Holder for the circular wire LED switch I have pegged for this project. But that too has to be changed / upgraded to a 15amp capability. Will look for a compatible switch along with the DC Jack.

3Dogs, your suggestion of a 4 pin header is what I was thinking. I found a 4-pin terminal block with screw down type clamps that fits the bill.

Thanks again.

Do you realize that the typical thickness of copper on a PCB is 0.035mm?

Yes, I was aware. I have to assume that the Creality 4.2.7 has the same thickness as any board sent in for build. At the moment my plan is to use the double-sided PCB boards I just received in the mail. Nowhere on the box or paperword does it mention thickness, but I would guess them to be the same as my new main board.

I’ll find out when I start putting power to it. Once I have gone through the breadboard first of course.

Thanks for watching out, and if I make any mistakes, holler.

Be careful when talking about “thickness” PCB’s are specified and made using ounces of copper/sq ft. The thickness could vary from spot to spot. I do know when starting with copper clad board you have a better chance at uniformity but it is still in oz/ft sq.

Looking at the sch your connector is close to the power plug so when you route it you can double the amount of copper by using the top and bottom layers going to the connector, can’t see where they go after the switch but using as much copper as possible can reduce the temp rise.

that’s a nice little tid-bit to know, thanks…