Pogo pin footprint


I’m actually new with Kicad and i’m wondering if there is pogo footprint in kicad

Don’t knowing what is pogo footprint I used Google and got back to forum :slight_smile:

Didn’t read that thread, but may be it will be helpfull.
If there were the solution in 2021 than still should be valid.

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To use pogo pins, you need an array of pads in a courtyard. Usually you need some sort of mounting holes in the board to locate it on the pogo jig

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Hi David ,

you wanna mean that is just having a pad and then this pogo pin can be soldering on top ??


Ah, you are looking for a footprint for the pins, not the target.
In that case you just need through hole pads with a finished hole just big enough for the pin body.
Again arrange in the array you want.

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A footprint with a single THT pad is indeed all you need for such a pin, but what is your final goal?

For big test fixtures, it is probably a good Idea to use two PCB’s with some distance in between them. This keeps all the pogo pins parallel to each other. (and perpendicular to the PCB’s if they are aligned correctly) Pogo pins also have a finite life. There are “connector sleeves” for pogo pins, so pogo pins can be replaced without soldering.

And also, do some planning. You likely also need mating pads in another KiCad project. You can make a copy of that other project, leave the footprint with (presumably) SMT pads for the pogo pins, and then use “change footprint” functions to replace the footprints with SMT pads for the THT pads for the pogo pins themselves.


Thanks @paulvdh @davidsrsb for all your input and suggestion

I might known that here is not the best place to ask this question but yes i feel to ask it though

Some of my component needs a very stable 3v and 3.3v maximum and i wanna powered them up with the lipo battery 3.7v 480mAh but as the lipo battery is higher to avoid overvoltage i have used a MCP1700T-3302E/MB to regulate to 3.3v but i wonder if anyone have used this regulator before to regulator the lipo from 3.7v to 3.3v

I have never used MCP1700. I think I looked at its datasheet may be 10 years ago and in my list of potentially interested LDOs for MCP1700 I have a note: “Dynamically weak”.

ST’s LD29150 is probably worth a look.

I’ve used it on a couple of designs powered by 3.7V lithium batteries.

0.2V dropout at 750mA, so still a bit of headroom for a 3.3V supply.

It’s in a DPak, so a bit bulky, but if you’ve got the space…

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Thanks for the hint therefore i will have to change it. which regulator will you recomended to have a fixed 3.3v ?? with 3.7 battery lipo ?

thanks @mattyclark1981 i will get a look, for you LD29150 perform very well with fixed 3.3v output ?

Yes, I used the fixed 3.3v output.

One project was running an STM32F405 microcontroller, and an SD card, and a comms interface.

Once I’d sorted out pull-ups on the SD card lines, it worked great.

On the battery side, I paired it with a BQ24075 (I think) charge controller.

Thanks @mattyclark1981 i will have aa look, but as you said the dropout voltage is 0.2v this means when lipo is dropped to 3.4v the circuit goes OFF ?

I am using 3V3 SOT23 regulators, but as I have at their input 5V and from the same 5V I have pull-ups at device inputs and these inputs are protected with 18V transils so I assume in case of Surge pulses some current will flow from outside world into 5V so I have there 6V8 Zener, so during pulses there can be more than 7V. Because of it I was using regulators with about 16Vin max.
There are lot of LDOs with Vin max about 6,5V (my list have over 300 positions) and I suppose you should select one from them, but as I have not used any of them.
Open DigiKey or Mouser select LDOs SOT23 3V3 output, sort them with rising price (or with store state if possible) and use first one that fulfills your needs. One of my needs would be for example that LDO is stable with ceramic capacitor at output. I will also look at ground pin current, and output behavior during load jump. You should also look at voltage drop as there are such with 300mV at 100mA and such with 24mV at 100mA. So for each from list I will open and read its datasheet.
Interesting at my lists looks:

  • TLV740P - it is from 2020 so rather new (I assume technology goes forward and newer is generally, better)
  • TLV700xx - they didn’t write ceramic, but ESR=0-0.2 - should work with ceramic
  • AP7313 - they write stable at Iout=0 - so do others can be unstable?
  • LP5907 - ceramic, 50mV/100mA, I have a note that 45dB damping at 300-500kHz and Digi had lots of them so people like them (but don’t know when it was),
  • TLV713xx - 150mA, interesting as need no capacitor at output,
  • TLV743P - 300mA, ceramic, 50mV at 100mA

These with xx in name certainly have 3V3 version, others - don’t know - may be only adjustable.

It didn’t in my case, as my current draw was low relative to the rating of the regulator, so the dropout voltage was a bit lower.

Have a look at the datasheet - I was only running about 100mA overall, and dropout was around 0.1 volts, so usable even with a nearly discharged battery,

I still got enough voltage to run things. I monitored the battery voltage (in a slightly unconventional manner to get around the lack of a separate reference input on the low pin count packages) to determine when the battery was getting flat enough to shut down.

You may struggle to find a very low dropout linear regulator that can drop no more than 0.1 volts at a large(ish) current.

You’re in the realm of SEPIC switched mode converters or jumping to a 2 cell design.

Hello @mattyclark1981 i will definitely relay on your suggested regulator LD29150DT33R hope it will work for my design as expected as my maximum load current is almost 100mA to 120mA i think this is good with this regulator

First of all, have a look at the battery datasheet. This is no constant voltage device.
max. loading voltage = 4,2V
nominal voltage = 3,7V
min working volatge = 3,0V (do not unload the battery below this value)

In use, the voltage is somewhere between 3,0V and 3,7V