I’m looking for (paid) help (I don’t expect work for free)

That is cool! That is exactly what and how I’ve been doing things for years now. As I’ve explained above, my issue is not learning KiCad. It is the lack of knowledge to build complex circuits from scratch on my own. So, instead of socketing a Teensy (or a 5V buck converter, an USB hub, sensor breakout boards, etc.) the idea is to have it all on an actual, compact board.

At first I thought I could just copy and paste these things as there is an abundance of examples. In practice though, it’s not feasible as a lot of it is junk and I don’t have the knowhow to “fix” it or it may need adapting for different requirements, etc, which I lack the knowhow to do it on my own.

I guess what I am really asking is for help in the design process as in: here is what I need, can you design it? Hence the offer to pay for it. I can deal with the basics but not much beyond that.

This is how I had been doing before:

But I can be really lazy and just slap things into a protoboard:

Now I want to make it compact :slight_smile:

1 Like

I hear ya on that!

Thanks for clarification. This Kicad forum isn’t the place to get the most useful ‘Design’ help/guidance, though users here can/will provide some good help. You might consider other sites dedicated to circuit design as opposed to PCB design… They are too numerous to list/recommend…

That said, a starting point could be accomplished by searching for circuits of Open-Source products that offer their Circuits that work (in a similar fashion to Arduino offering circuits of their boards wherein many vendors and Users use them/enhance-them and re-brand them and/or integrate into their gizmo design.).

Another simple approach that may work for you is to Use the components/parts/boards you show and to ‘Re-Package’ them using Kicad to build Stackable, Shield-Based-plugin’s…etc.

For Example; You show devices (ESP…etc) on Protoboard and Relay module - these ‘Off-The-Shelf’ gizmo’s could be combined into a Stackable/Other scenario. Using Kicad and FreeCAD, they could be optimized as needed.

Screenshot below shows examples of Concept done in Kicad. Thus, minimal circuit design but requiring User configuration/concept work for Stacking/Packaging…

You could connector-ize them and, if knowing CAD, such as FreeCAD, you could combine them in the tool-chain for efficient work.

You can download Gerber files of the Open-source products and use the Gerbers in Kicad to build the complete design…

Yup, that’s the direction I seem to be going. The combination of how easy KiCad makes it and the proliferation of affordable offshore PCB services, makes it all quite approachable. I guess I got too ambitious wanting to integrate it all into single boards. I can indeed stack most everything above, which is basically what I did. What I really didn’t like were things like the USB connections (running actual USB cables consume a lot of volume within the enclosure, panel mount connectors are huge, etc.). That led me to use the way overkill Teensy just because it exposes its D+/D- pads while the other (Arduino style) boards don’t.

I’ve been lurking this forum for quite some time. The reason I posted the question here rather than elsewhere was because I found it quite refreshing when compared to other places. Frequently I end up at places like the Arduino forums during Google searches just to find trolls making it look like a political debate on Twitter. People here (in this forum) are just nice :slight_smile:

This particular project is basically replicating an existing product using stuff I mostly have already. Yup, it would be a heck lot easier to just buy it but what’s the fun in that? (Not to mention they want $3,000 for it).

Thanks!

By the way, this thread is a great example of what I had in mind when I first posted this. It would be great to have a collection of “building blocks” and sort of build a circuit Lego style :slight_smile:

This may be a shot in the dark here. There just may not be available what you want. However, looking wouldn’t hurt much. Have you looked on github or other similar sites for circuits and Kicad files for what you want to accomplish? Example, I wanted a battery desulfator. I found a project on github I think that had the circuit, gerber files and even the Kicad files in case one wanted to adjust for larger coils or something. I found exactly what I was looking for, sent the gerber files off and then assembled everything when they come in. I do plan to adjust for larger coils one of these days but that won’t be hard to do at all since I have all the files.

You may just run up on something that is really close if not even better than what you are needing. If nothing else, close enough that you can adjust things and not have to reinvent the wheel to do it. Also, the original maker may include any improvements you have or fork the project with your improvements for others to use. After all, if you want something, odds are, someone else does too.

It’s just a thought.

Lol,

Not at all a shot in the dark. I’ve been scouring Github. Nothing specific but lots of pertinent parts. The issue as I described above is sorting out the signal from the (awful large amount of) noise. I even found someone who wrote a script to scrape every KiCad 6 project.

For instance, this repository is well put together for the few things it contains. The issue is that some things are not that simple to trace (PCB layout) and it would be great if we had the ability to have PCB hierarchies in the way we have schematic hierarchy pages (as described here).

Thanks! :slight_smile:

That’s going to be difficult because physical components introduce more variations than are present in abstract schematics. However one may regard the shield concept as a realisation of building block hardware. Have you considered building your projects as a set of shields around a core MCU board?

That’s true for more complex systems. “Shields” is sort of what I’ve been doing. That is, using Pololu, Adafruit, Sparkfun, etc. breakout boards and tying them together into a project. In the majority of the cases, this works just fine. But in cases where I want to make things compact, the wasted volume in using separate PCBs for everything becomes an issue. I guess I’m daydreaming in thinking I could have these breakout boards as sch/pcb “blocks” that could easily be stitched together into one board as opposed to physically separate boards. It’s way beyond me to attempt to assemble SMD boards on my own. Primarily because it’s not practical to source “one ofs” from various vendors, which makes shipping costs orders of magnitude greater than the components themselves. Instead I would rely on PCB services that offer assembly. But then you run into issues that they invariably don’t stock a lot of the parts used in these boards. Way too many variations. Oh well…

Hi @dogmaphobic , interesting goal to migrate from breakouts to one compact pcb.
And that pcb should come populated and soldered, thus plug, program and play to you, right?
Just out of interest:
how many units are you aiming to produce?
I must admitt I did not read every single line in this thread, sorry if the answer is already there.

You can ask chatGTP to re-invent a brand new iteration of the wheel for you. :slight_smile:

A big part of what you are asking for is a feature sometimes called “Design blocks”. This would let you quickly switch between using break-out boards, and implementing the circuit and schematic of a breakout board in a project. But this is not implemented (yet) in KiCad.

It’s also not a golden bullet. Someone would still have to put all those breakout boards into KiCad projects. For the ubiquitous Chinese LM2575 clone board this is probably done relatively quickly, but there are a gazillion of those breakout boards “out there”, and quite a bunch are already “Open Source / Hardware” or trivial to reverse-engineer. This then makes it a “library management issue” for the most part. Such a library would also be a nice start for discovering “interesting” parts for hobbyists.

As far as I know there is no copyright on PCB layout, but I think that Paul Stoffregen would not be entirely happy if his Teensys ended up in such a library. As far as I know he does not publish the EDA project, but just the schematic and PCB pinout.

Another issue is PCB density. You have used THT parts for everything on your PCB, while using an IC such as on the Teensy 4 will require a quite dense SMT PCB and at least 4 layers, and this is quite a big difference.


But more to the point.
In your particular project, your PCB is quite fully packed. Apparently you want to make the PCB smaller, but changing the breakout boards to their individual components is not likely to make your PCB smaller.
A more logical way would be to change all your discrete parts to SMT, and then put them under the breakout boards, or put parts on both sides of the PCB. But dual sided parts placement is an extra complication for manufacturing too.

Another option is to trade size for height by putting the circuit on two PCB’s.

Also, you write you want to trade your time for money. PCB design is a bit complicated on the communication part. There are many tradeoffs which require communication, and thus require time (which costs money) from both parties. Outsourcing PCB Assembly is also quite expensive for small production runs, as a lot of time is needed for acquiring the parts and setting up the machines.

It may also be a case of “premature optimization”. How many of these boards do you expect to sell? If it’s below some 50 to 100 boards, then doing the soldering yourself is still doable and just keeping the breakout boards (or at least keep the “high density” Teensy) is probably the best option. Maybe you can find somebody locally to do the soldering for you.

For hand-soldering, I also prefer SMT parts to THT parts. You don’t have to turn the PCB, no parts falling off, you don’t have to clip resistor leads, etc. SOT-23 and SMT resistors are much easier and quicker to solder then TO92 and THT resistors. (Fine pitch IC’s and BGA’s are a … “different category”). But I do highly recommend a decent stereo microscope (A few hundred EUR) for this. A stereo microscope does not only make placement and soldering easier, but because you can see much better what you are doing, it also improves soldering quality, and of course also visual inspection.

Amusing myself while drinking Coffee, I did a couple of things that, most likely, won’t be of interest if just wanting to Pay someone to do the work… But, I post this as FYI…

Many posted Circuits for the many Gizmo’s User may want to use for making Blocks of complete circuits (PCB and/or Schematic) - here’s one Example to Espressif ESP32 and result for one of the Downloaded Gerbers is shown below. Schematic is also downloadable. I looked at several sites to see most all provide Gerbers and several have Kicad Schematic/PCB for downloading.

Re: Paul Stoffregen (Teensy), he posts Kicad Files (shared by others so, I imagine he’s approved them) and could thus, confidently be used in a Block. I did Not look at the Posted files…

Re: Stereo-Microscope
I’ve bought perhaps 30 Video camera’s for testing (for different purposes) and dialed into a few that I can recommend at low-cost with good performance. One of my favorites (used in Video below).
I added a Focusable, Optical Loupe with Scale/Gradient and 3D-Printed a housing and Stand. The combination of this $10 Webcam and Optical Loupe/scale is super performing.
Unfortunately, I broke the 3D-Mount and Base so, I kluged Cardboard together for videoing… I did Not bother to adjust Focus (flimsy cardboard…) but, you’ll get the idea.
Using QuickTime, I can Zoom-in, in real-time while soldering/etc. With 27in monitor, It’s like being in a Movie Theater!

Re: Visual Inspection, using the above with Grated Scale, you can see it would easily show a Human Hair (Avg Thickness = 0.1mm) and was helpful in finding Short-Circuit caused by metal shard…
Camera slips into the 3D-Printed Housing below

Screenshots, Espressif

Gerber Example of Esprissif

TEENSY Files for Kicad

Video Inspection ($10 Camera and the$20 Loupe) Not Zoomed (file too big for Posting, Use your Imagination…)

Lol,

This post started with a plea for something I wasn’t even sure what. It soon became obvious it was a pipe dream. Nonetheless, I’ve learned a lot and I appreciate all the input. It amazes me what we can do today (as just DIYers at home) that would be impossible not too long ago.

Funny ChatGPT was mentioned. Last night, after reading the thread the thought did occur to me. One day, we should be able to feed ChatGPT with every data sheet in existence and have it come up with a circuit based on a textual description :slight_smile:

Thanks everybody,

g

Engineering. Where dreams meet reality. :wink:

2 Likes

beside everything else there are some things I wonder about.

  1. why do you need as many high power 12V outputs.3 Amps is a lot of power, I assume for motors. To lead so much power over a PCB is not so easy. In such cases you normally have a power supply for the electronic and a second one for the high power.
  2. for what do you need as many USB ports, using this device as a USB hub too, is not the best joice in my opinion.
  3. why is minimal place so important

I design PCB boards for my projects since same time an I was always quite happy combining my circuits and ready modules together i. example I use Arduino Nano, or ESP8266/32, nRFL24L01 and small DC-DC module with a fixed voltage of 5V and 3,3V 3A together. These modules are 20x16mm in size, cheap and reliable and ther are even smaler ones.

An other thing is I you want series, but as I understand it is just for a one time project.

The picture of you designed PCP looks fine for me so far, can’t see what problem you have with it.

This is used to feed (and control) an astrophotography telescope. Astrophotography cameras are supper cooled (using Peltier coolers) and draw quite a bit of power. The telescope itself along with the guide scope have dew heaters around the front elements. The circuit measures the ambient temperature and humidity level and computes the dew point, activating the dew heaters (PWM) as necessary. Then you have the mount (2 large motors), focuser, camera rotator, filter wheel, polar scope, etc. All 12V, all controlled using individual USB connections. The loads described are absolute maximum. It’s extremely unlikely all ports will ever be drawing the maximum load all at the same time. However, you don’t want to under engineer it. Where I live, temperatures are usually close to or below 0°C so only during peak summer the high loads come into play (which coincides with not a great deal of night time).

It’s so much about “minimal” space, but the less bulk next to the telescope, the better.

In any case I would separate the high current part from the normal electronics
for 10A your maximum input you need a track size of 10 mm by 35µ copper.
If you move relays and all the high current outputs to a second PCB, this will save size.
On the other side your motors and heater drives will need heatsinks otherwise they will blow up by these currents. Thats an other reason to separate regular electronics from high current part.
I would place the motor and heater drivers near to motors and heaters.
I still do not understand your USB concept.

For modern MOSFETs thanks to their very low on resistance 2…3 Amper currents are not terrible even without heatsink (or a small zone working as it).
There are also fully protected MOSFETs like:

or
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/ZXMS6006DGTA?qs=jgIirWfYdG%2Fpyz%2FARrJe1g%3D%3D

you are right, but I would not relay on this, at least a small heatsink will let me sleep better

Then I suggest you gain some more experience with working with MOSfets.
These things can easily switch 10A or more without any heat sink, and SMT parts with some extra cooling in the form of copper area on the PCB they can switch much more. Easily 100A, and this makes the copper on the PCB for conducting the current the limiting factor.

Take this one (PMV16XN) for example:
https://nl.mouser.com/datasheet/2/916/PMV16XN-1525749.pdf

A small SOT-23 and according to the datasheet it can handle 8.6A.
With an Rds-on of 20mOhm (max) and 5A of current it will dissipate 0.5W and that would still be within limits without too much copper on the PCB for heat dissipation.

Also, have a look at controllers for BLDC motors. Below motor currents of 20A or so, most do not even have a heat sink. and those FET’s are switching PWM motor currents all the time.

If you want to sleep better. You can also use a “high-side switch”. These are also a mosfet, but they have a built in driver (so they can’t get operated in the linear region where it can get hot) and they also have built in protection for over voltage, over current, temperature, etc.

4 Likes

Hi @dogmaphobic,

I maybe able to help. The sort of stuff you are asking for, is the sort of stuff I’ve been doing for years.

PM me if you want to discuss in more detail.

Kind regards
Pedro