With good DXF file, it’s a One-Click solution (sort of).
If the DXF is cluttered with duplicate and open line-shapes, it wont’ be One-Click…
Post the file, I’ll look at it…
Below are examples…
Imported DXF into FreeCad and did 'Face To Wires’
A DXF loaded into Kicad then, making Footprint (using the 'Image Converter Tool), then editing footprint. Not for Noob’s
Thanks for your feedback.
My idea is to design a part who is no more available and modify for my usage. I try to perform the real part with little CNC based on the Cad file but after many test I have always the same issue the copper sheet (0.1mm) not stay glue on the plastic sheet (0.16mm).
The DXF was design in Cad software.
I have some picture but forum limit to one.
I would like to create at the end a flex PCB because it is at the origin. As I do not achieve to produce it. I need to provide “gerber” file it’s why I try to convert trough KiCad to send it to a company like PCBway or what ever it is.
Have you a tutorial for this ? because I see this function and made a quick test with *.png file but if it is possible from the DXF it’s better (better precision, no ?)
You found the tutorial…(the link @eelik posted).
DXF is the Best approach (using PNG, JPG, etc in the Converter will Not be clean and will take more time/effort than starting from scratch).
Thus, with DXF, simply import into Kicad, (or, Filling Wires can be done from different FreeCad Workbenches.)
Best to use the Part workbench, select the wires, Part>Make_Face
I have this message in FreeCad :
20:14:11 This function will be deprecated. Please use ‘convert_draft_texts’.
20:14:11 ----------------
20:14:11 Convert Draft texts
I try to upload a DXF for test but I have not the right and I find the Convert Draft texts function
I continue to search.
This is for a dashboard of a car?
I would redraw it in Kicad, and not worry very much about exactly duplicating the appearance of the traces. Just make sure the sockets are in the right location.
Yes it is. The issue is that the light socket are fixed directly to the flex pcb and dashboard box. I have also connector for the global info. I have not so much space behind the dashboard so I can’t have a big quantity of wire it’s why I would like to keep the flex pcb solution.
Of course, filling the wires (as in Make Face) only fills them. After that, you need to get it into Kicad … review/search posts…
EDIT: I repeat so as to not confuse you: Refer to my posted info (re the link above from @eelik ). That is all you need to do if your DXF is good.
At some point, moderator will enable you to post the file(s).
A variant from BlackCoffee’s suggestion. I think you can change the outline of a .DXF file in KiCad into the outline of a copper zone. It may be a quick fix, but it also has some disadvantages. Copper zones in Kicad are just a definiton of a “maximum size”, and they can get intersected by other things.
How many of these things do you want to make?
It may be a consideration to just create a very small “single connector PCB”, which also has some extra holes, and then hand wire the thing.
Are those light bulbs?
While you’re at it, why not replace them with LED’s?
Or at least take a step back and look at alternative methods to get to a decent result.
It looks like you’ve got bare copper connector fingers by folding a piece of flex over a plastic ridge. Something like that is hard to get reliable with DIY method.
Ok, normally the dxf is in good quality but made I made it from 2D drawing. I will try from 3D wire or face as if it is created like you show in FreeCad.
I would like to made at minimum 1 dashboard, but each light is one line/one wire. The only one who are grouped are the 6 big one (light for night) and general earth.
Yes it is light bulbs. I have in mind to replace by LED’s but the issue is that they provide too much light and they change the original colour of the original film. I need to have directly the LED’s in the good colour (not easy to find in good quality but it’s possible).
If at the end I do not achieve to make it in DIY or by a company, I will try it with wire, small PCB for connector and so on. No emergency on my side I have another dash in the car actually
It’s work. Not easy but it’s work. I hope that I do not forget if I need to do some modifications 
Thanks for your help
Next step check the production compatibility because I have only F.Cu, F.Mask, Edge.Cuts
Nice!
You need some holes added as they don’t appear to have come through. Either edgeCut, suitably sized via or a through hole.
You are likely going to have to eyeball the centres 
Nice.
Can you give a short description on how you did it and what functions you used?
I would be inclining towards a “standard PCB”, which means creating two footprints, (with different sized holes for the lightbulbs) and the two pads. This is a bit more work, but I believe that knowing how to create footprints is an essential skill in KiCad.
It can also save you time in the long run. If for example you decide you want to replace the lightbulbs with LED’s, you can just create a footprint for the LED’s, and then with a few mouseclicks replace them all. (But the tracks probably need cleanup after that).
You can also add a circle or other graphics to such footprints to make eyeballing their location easier and more accurate. (Although the center locations are probably present in the DXF file)
Copper hole is the same size as edge cut, so it’s maybe due to that. As the copper layer is the top one you don’t see the other one.
I will test the width with a negative value to see if it improve the result. here it’s with 0.
I apply the tuto of @BlackCoffee
I have design all in CatiaV5.
To have the DXF, file I have put all the elements in different drawing (1 page = 1 layer in KiCad). So I have 1 DXF for the F.Cu, 1 for the F.Mask and 1 for the Edge.Cuts
I have not use FreeCad at the end because my issue is due of a mistake in the footprint import.
Issues and steps :
KiCad
TextEditor
KiCad
To replace the light bulbs by LED I just need to replace it in the support because it’s w5w type light and B8.5D/T5.
The power of the dashboard is “easy” all the signal is the +12v and all the light have the same earth (-), so if the LED don’t work I just need to turn the support by 180°.
To center every layer I think I need to have a small cross in the center to be sure that it’s fully superimposed
Not sure to understand all your meanings but I hope that I reply correctly
