Nice.
Can you give a short description on how you did it and what functions you used?
I would be inclining towards a “standard PCB”, which means creating two footprints, (with different sized holes for the lightbulbs) and the two pads. This is a bit more work, but I believe that knowing how to create footprints is an essential skill in KiCad.
It can also save you time in the long run. If for example you decide you want to replace the lightbulbs with LED’s, you can just create a footprint for the LED’s, and then with a few mouseclicks replace them all. (But the tracks probably need cleanup after that).
You can also add a circle or other graphics to such footprints to make eyeballing their location easier and more accurate. (Although the center locations are probably present in the DXF file)
I have design all in CatiaV5.
To have the DXF, file I have put all the elements in different drawing (1 page = 1 layer in KiCad). So I have 1 DXF for the F.Cu, 1 for the F.Mask and 1 for the Edge.Cuts
I have not use FreeCad at the end because my issue is due of a mistake in the footprint import.
Issues and steps : KiCad
To create a footprint you need to create a library first and select it to be sure that you can save the footprint.
I can now do File>New Footprint. I put the name and for my side, I select Other for footprint type. I don’t know the impact but we never know.
When I import my dxf file I have use File>Import>Graphics… (I have not find the File>Import Outline From DXF of tuto, maybe because of the new version).
At this stage I have another issue, because I directly select F.Cu for the import layer. When I do this, I always have only the outer line not the “painted face”. You need to use another layer like User.1 or what ever. In the Tuto it’s write that you stay by default and change later it’s very important to change the layer with a TextEditor because if you don’t do this it not work.
I save my footprint to have the MOD file.
TextEditor
With the TextEditor I have replaced all the text with the layer. Replace “(layer “User.1”) (width 0)” by “(layer “F.Cu”) (width 0)”
I have take a long character text to be sure that I have the correct elements
KiCad
Add a footprint, select your library and you footprint modified in TextEditor. Normally when you select it you can see that copper track “painted”.
To replace the light bulbs by LED I just need to replace it in the support because it’s w5w type light and B8.5D/T5.
The power of the dashboard is “easy” all the signal is the +12v and all the light have the same earth (-), so if the LED don’t work I just need to turn the support by 180°.
To center every layer I think I need to have a small cross in the center to be sure that it’s fully superimposed
Not sure to understand all your meanings but I hope that I reply correctly
Kicad 6 has a very good SVG import function that can work with filled areas and different stroke widths.
It’s great for those kinds of problems.
I would work on the DXF in Inkscape (or something similar) until it looks right and then import the SVG into KiCad. then add outline, add holes etc. and maybe make a custom footprint for those weird round-square holes…
While I agree with @eelik that you won’t use most of the funktionality of Kicad (since you don’t have any schematic or even netlist) and there’s probably a way to convert graphics directly to gerbers, I can definitely se a benefit of using the PCB editor. Adding holes/vias at the right and places, working on te solder mask layer etc. is much easier this way…also being able to check your work in the 3d editor is super useful.
These are for locating the dash board light globe sockets (two different sizes)… push the socket into the hole and twist to locate and connect.
They must have a surrounding area of mask free copper to complete the circuit.
Sitting in the vehicle, looking at the dash, the copper needs to be on the back side.
Some of the other holes are for positioning the board on locating lugs (can have mask), others supply power and signals to the various instruments (no mask). The tabs up top form plugs to attach to the wiring loom (no mask).
A fair amount of work to create the mask is required. See photo way up this thread.