Thermal Pad, Solid vias, Thermal Relief, (complete noob)

You have paste over the vias. Disable visibility of the paste layer and you will see the vias.

And regarding thermal vias in exposed pads: We typically make this inside the footprint using through hole pads of the correct size. These through hole pads would get the same pin number as the large pad. See Tutorial: How to make a footprint in KiCad 5.1.x? for a detailed tutorial and https://kicad.org/libraries/klc/F4.4/ as well as https://kicad.org/libraries/klc/F6.3/ for how it is applied to the official lib.

We have a footprint generator that makes footprints like these: https://github.com/pointhi/kicad-footprint-generator/tree/master/scripts/Packages/Package_Gullwing__QFP_SOIC_SO(documentation is in the process of being added https://github.com/pointhi/kicad-footprint-generator/pull/380) (There is also a similar generator for no lead packages in the same repo.)

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