I’m working on updating my Sound Bar Controller to be based on an ATTiny85 and while laying out the schematic, I ran into a question on how to show both the AVR six pin programmer header, as well as the regular pin connections. I’m using the ATTiny85V-10PU symbol from the KiCad libraries. I’m using KiCad 5.1.5-3 on Windows 10 x86_64.
Right now my setup is a bit messy, but the idea is that you plug the unit into your TV via a USB A to A cable, which powers everything. If there’s no power on the sense line from the Sound Bar, use the IR LED to send the power toggle code and check the sense line again.
I’m sorta planning on either using USB A connectors (either single or double stacked) for the main input and sense input, OR using standard right angle two pin deaders for my testing/initial work ups.
The IR LED would be hooked up via a simple 1/8" audio connector, like the old TIVO remote IRled setup was done. Yes, I have pretensions of making this into a product some day. Heh.
In any case, here’s my schematic so far. Any thoughts would be very helpful.
Can you elaborate on what your question is? I’m not quite sure what you mean.
Wouldn’t it be better to put a USB B or USB Micro B connector on your unit, and then use a standard cable? USB A to A sounds unnecessarily weird.
I am by no means an expert on how to do things with crystals, but don’t you need to connect each of the crystal’s legs to GND via a capacitor? (See section 6.2.6 of the ATtiny85 datasheet.) I use 22pF capacitors.
Sure, my question really boils down to best practice for laying out a schematic with an ATTiny85 and the six pins for the programmer to use on the board, while still interfacing with the various other chips and devices I need to talk to.
I’m looking to sense an older TV and Sound Bar’s power state. The old USB A ports on them makes for an easy way to hook them up with a regular USB A-to-A cable.
My current setup is an Adafruit GemmaM0 runnning Circuity pytthon and powered by a wall wart. It works well, but my design sucks because the TV/Sound bar both back-power the device if the wall wart isn’t on. So as a learning exercise, I’m trying to design something new to be powered up quickly by the TV itself, so I know that the TV is on if my controller is on.
I might! I haven’t gotten quite that far with my design schematic, and I will refer to the ATTiny85 docs on what the best practices are. I had been hoping to get away without using an 8mhz crystal, but sending IR code(s) requires pretty precise timing.
