Solder a thick wire on a track?

I’d hate to be a traction motor driver layout guy… The 4oz copper is not compatible with fine pitch SMT etching.
I have solved it in the past with using a sandwich of 1 oz 2 layer sandwiched to a 4oz 2 layer to create a hybrid 1oz / 4oz board and it wasnt great.

During reflow is where the problems start due to warp . Not warp like warp field. Warp due to different copper weights generating different expansions . The bottom 1oz side had to have copper poured up to an inch of its life, and there needed to be copper pour cutouts on the thick side to control the expansion.

How much current goes though those wires?
How many PCB’s are you planning to make?

Another option is to use “bus bars”

Those bus bars come in many forms. I think there are some standard sizes you can buy off the shelf, but often these are custom products made to size. There are also variants made from a piece of copper wire and connectors you can screw on any location on the wire.

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There are also SMT machine placeable copper strips you can buy

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2oz copper is the highest standard weight that still allows most SMD parts.
Forget inner layers, they can only carry little current

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Blimey ! just flood the track with solder or get some twin and earth and pull out the earth and solder that on.
:mouse:

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I agree with this.

The motor controller I made about 10 years ago was just made by putting solder on the track - it can handle 50amp and it still runs :slight_smile:

(The diagram is at the end of the video)

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You should consider designing the PCB using bus bars that can carry hundreds of amperes.
An example of such a design is the kWeld spot-welder that will supply in excess of 1000A (peak).

See kWeld – complete kit | keenlab

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I tried to solder wires to one commerical/third party pcb board on traces instead of trying to get multiple wires directly connected on to 0.4mm pitch chip legs and failed miserably.

I used the sharp knife and fiberglass brush to remove the solder mask and I got the copper visible. And then I cleaned it multiple time with the 91% isopryhol alcohol. (Needed to do multiple times, as it seemed that on first times the alcohol actually spread the solder mask from surrounding areas back to exposed copper)

After that applied solder paste before trying to solder the wire to it and I just could not get the solder tin to attach to the board, it just stayed on my solder iron.
In some youtube videos it looked so easy, but not for me in real life. Do you have any extra ideas how to do this properly?

Use lots of tacky flux.

Once you get the Track/Copper cleaned (very clean!) you can coat it with Tin. You can buy it online or, make your own. Here’s my link on making it (and, Click the ‘more’ and read the Comment someone posted at the original posted ‘Short video’ - he was a happy camper when done…)

You won’t want to submerge a completed PCB but, perhaps you can ‘Brush, Swab’ it on multiple times as it needs at least one minute to plate the copper…

Amazon Link to Buy ready-made Tinning solution…

Thank you for the tin coating instructions, always learning something new. Will definetly try to test this one some day.

Any recommendation for that type of flux? I have mostly used my just flux pens.

No-clean:

Water-washable:
https://a.co/d/hz3i8GP

I prefer the water-washable flux, if the rest of the board can take washing.

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