Look for ‘Liquid’ solder paste. Be aware that a lot of it is leaded and not ROHS compliant.
I really recommend a 998D Heat station. CHEAP and CHEERFUL; works very well. I paid about £40 for mine!
The trick with SMD solding is to use a heat-pad or equivalent to preheat the PCB. This allows you to spend less time blowing at it with hot air.
I used to do repair work for MOD based company. We used METCAL rework station which did NOT have hot air. We did all our SMD solding under a binocular microscope with a really really incredibly Fat tip. The large tip on the soldering iron means that the tip doesnt become deprived of heat upon contact and so you spend a lot less time with tip-to-component. Fine tips can not convey enough heat and so you spend a lot more time tip-to-component which destroys components and makes tracks lift. Not recommended. The Metcals are damned expensive.
Also, be very limiting with the amount of rosin based flux if you use any at all. You should not need it if the tracks etc are clean enough. With SMDs and ICs the residues can be very hard to clean out from under the components and will serve to damage performance of the final board, under many circumstances. You can use Isopropanol to clean the flux but you MUST expose your board to some amount of air flow for some time in order to guarantee the alcohol has fully evapourated before you power up your board. The stuff is very flammable and in some cases will flash fry your components. Very much the bad kind of deep fried chips.
You MUST look at the datasheets for the heat tolerances of each component. Heatsinking, a very traditional technique, is not always recommended as on very sensitive components the hot/cold difference can create electrical transients that will fry your component.
Maybe a little more than you need to worry about here. Its not all that bad
And sorry this isnt related but I was searching 998D when I found this
Remember using these, anyone??