PCB – 4 layer board: how to connect only top and bottom layers, on some library devices

I supposed that my explanation:

was enough clear.
But now I suppose it wasn’t, as it took 4 days to find it :slight_smile:

But generally if I have zone and connector’s pin at the same net I prefer to have as good connection as possible. If you don’t need that connection than may be this zone is not needed under this connector.

In this case it was the kind, simple reply from eelik which made it clear :slight_smile:

Please note that eelik is also guessing:

This is now the 23rd post in this thread. If you can manage to give a better explanation of your problem, you get much quicker and better answers.

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Plated holes are always a pain to desolder - mucking about with thermal relief on pads wont make a huge difference. You’d do better to get the proper soldering tools, i.e. a hotplate to preheat the whole board, and a sufficiently powerful iron (I like Metcals for this).

I will do my best to be more spot on in eventual future threads. My apologies for being spot off/unclear this time.

I have never noticed it :slight_smile: .
In 1980 I have bought 100W transformer soldering iron (others call it gun soldering iron).
I found exactly my iron at this video:

Don’t know what they are speaking - not my language.
I make the tips from copper wire with a diameter of 1.4 mm. Thicker than in this video.

I use it till today. With it you rather have the opposite problem. You have to have some experience so as not to overheat the tin. You can think it is danger for PCB to use such iron. None of these things.
Once per few years it happens that I have dozens times a day to solder/desolder 0603 capacitors from the one place at one PCB. I use for it two soldering irons. One typical for SMD elements and this one.
I touch one capacitor side with this iron switched off. When I see the other side is ready I switch it on for second or two. When capacitor gets out of PCB I at once switch this iron off and in a split second capacitor stays soldered to its tip being not hot. Then I can (no rush) change iron into tweezers in second hand and can take this capacitor by switching iron on for less then second. This way capacitors and PCB are not too long hot.

I have never considered to use any other iron to solder/desolder wires to/from PCB. Not long ago I used this iron to solder 4 mm² and 2.5 mm² wires twisted at 3 cm distance. It took some time to get these wires (dissipating heat very quickly) being hot enough but I made it.
PCB planes together with typical wire used with PCB dissipates heat much slower than 4 mm² wire.

I’ve been using the DEN-ON SC-7000Z for more than 25 years now. Works like a charm, desoldering THT parts out of plated holes of 2-layer and 4-layer boards has never been a challenge with it. In most cases the part will fall out of the PCB on its own after removing solder from the last THT pad.

I can highly recommend this tool. From my experience much better than a desoldering iron on an well-known soldering station I had been using for many years, too. The SC-7000Z gets much more heat into the soldering joint which is very important on pads connected to ground planes (even if connected by thermals).

Other companies built desoldering tools of similar design but I don’t have any experience with these.

Best regards

telyn

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