In PCBnew, we have always viewed the Backside of the PCB from the Front Side. As a consequence, the Backside Silkscreen is always backward. Maybe there is a toggle to enable viewing from the Backside? Like switch mode to backside view.
Kicad version 5 will come with a flip view.
In v 4 you only have the 3d viewer as a possible option (and printing to pdf)
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