Just had a board spun and I underestimated how much heat the 3.3V DPAK regulator device going to create when under the loads I gave it (at least I didn’t use the SOT-23 package… or the part would have prolly let the smoke out right quickly!).
I “think” I might be able to get away with a filled zone for the tab and via-stitching to the other copper side to keep the device happy.
How large can I make the thermal pad/zone/s and still be able to solder it with a Hakko FX888D before I have to break out the Paint Stripper hot air gun? What if I also choose to remove the solder mask from these zones?
Would I be better off with pad and hole to mount an aluminum heatsink to the copper of the PCB? Only issue there is that the tab is not ground, so the heatsink would be at the 3.3V regulated output voltage. Or, maybe the suggestion would be to use an insulated thermal pad?
General comments welcome, it’s not that big of a deal at the moment But my inner geek is trying to turn me into a real engineer and if you want to try to make my brain hurt I’m okay with that too.