Fyi. I’ve tried those vertical connectors and was not at all happy with them. Even a little force causes them to rock and break the connection. You should seriously be looking for something more robust.
For this “input power board” my plan is to pass the vertical connector through an opening in my housing.
I’ve considered either some hot melt to the case wall or perhaps the ability of the board to rotate slightly.
I don’t know how successful this approach will be but it makes a very small package to allow a standard wall wart to connect to an already built board.
I’m still working on the integrated 5 to 3.3 V section.
What you’ve done looks correct. What do you mean by “link”? What are you trying to accomplish?
In this case, the pin “number” is SH, and he has done that.
I assume we’re talking about vertical Micro B connectors here. I haven’t tried a partially SMT one like the OP is using, but I’ve been very happy with Würth 614105150721, which is fully THT. I’ve found it to be rock-solid in the cases where I’ve used it.
KiCad has no way to know that the 3 SH pads are connected together in the connector itself.
So you can connect them in the layout with a track or zone, or you can be aware that the three pads are connected outside the board and ignore the non-connected message of the DRC.
Typically those 3 pads get connections – traces or thermal stubs – while doing layout and some of them may be left unconnected to the net if it can’t be connected easily. It has seen many times that KiCad doesn’t have an easy ready made solution to tell that something can be connected or left unconnected or that some pads are alternatives.
But in this case there’s still one easy solution apart from ignoring the DRC errors and ratsnest lines: when you see in the layout that one pad is left unconnected, open the pad properties and delete the pad “number”. Then it’s not expected to be connected.
It has 3 “feet”. I’ve beefed up the mounting pads and considering a OSHPark 0.8mm board with 2 oz copper. I believe I will be able to twist the mounting tabs for better mechanical hold. Also I plan on having the connector face flush with the enclosure outside wall. A little silicone between the enclosure wall and the connector should make it robust.
BTW my goal is to have a small, easy to mount connector for input power to be used in my misc projects.
I love the jack you linked to
The cost is no problem but the size after another usb plug is connected will make the assy too long for use in small enclosures. I may purchase one and see if I can cut it down and solder wires (for just power).
It sounds like you’re more space-constrained, though…
Its funny, I worked in Aerospace and Automotive for many years and have developed an unnatural drive to make my projects small
The datasheet recommends a 1.0mm board. Sometimes I’ve used a 1.0mm board, and then the pins make it through. Other times, I’ve used a 1.6mm board, and the pins are pretty much flush with the board, but I’ve still been able to solder them anyway.