@hermit and @Rene_Poschl, you’ve hit the nail on the head. Thanks so much. I went over to the HackerSpace this afternoon to be tutored a bit, but he was using KiCAD 4, not 5. It was a bit confusing, to say the least, but I learned a lot. Skipping the Schematic was not a good thing.
One thing we could not figure out, was how to link a footprint to a symbol. It’s so easy to do it under Schema in 4, but I just can’t figure it out in 5. Any clues???
Actually, I think I just found it.
Nice job. Well done 
Hey, nice job!
How did you manage to do those circular copper tracks?
Thanks!
I simply drew concentric circles on the F-Cu layer. It doesn’t recognize them as tracks though which is kinda sad. This is my first attempt to design a PCB, so it’s been a bit of a learning curve. I used a “stand alone” instance of PCB new twice, before I learned I had to start KiCad and work from the schematic on.
This was my last attempt and I have submitted it to be made.
Well your post would be much more useful if you tell the user how instead of simply showing off what you did.
NetDOc already did it and changed it back. It’s not that hard Rene. It’s simple a matter of working out some basic angles and just keep arrange things. Frei nach Schnauze und pi mal Auge.
@NetDOc used a circular feature on the copper layer which is not supported by DRC.
So here an old post that can be used as a guide Curved tracks / free form drawing and of course Rounded Tracks Reloaded ... again: RF Tools for KiCad
That’s correct. DRC does not like this kind of design.
A trick to connect e.g. the pin header is to move the circle temporarily to a different layer. Lay out tracks. Move circle back to the intended layer. For simple projects like that it’s not an issue.
I would not do that with more complex designs though.
I’m trying to back track a bit on a design: how do you remove the copper flood?
I don’t remove the copper. I just click on the “Do not show filled areas in zones” button. After redoing my tracks I refill the zone and select again “Show filled areas in zones”.
If you want to remove the copper forever, delete the zone. But I don’t think you want so.
You can also find Unfill options from the zone’s context menu.
Removing the copper was easy: highlight any part of it and hit delete. Poof! It’s gone. 
I have been convinced through a series of posts on my forum that I needed to add a transformer. In discussing this with my Gainesville Hackerspace mentor, Joe D, we settled on FDV325N which has a SOT-23 footprint. I deleted most everything except for most of my footprints. I’m wanting to use three wires instead of any connectors, so I changed those to three singles, added a Handsolder SOT-23 footprint, edited my LED footprints to be handsoldered, moved resistors around, aligned the two through holes to be properly aligned with the center line created by my silkscreen names and center, used the new track techniques for improved looks and… I think that’s about it. Here’s the result:
I’m pretty happy about this. When I think on projects I did back in the late sixties and seventies, where this was simply not a possibility, it blows my mind.
Entry level is way down. I tell people ‘hobbies is my hobby’. 
I really wanted to make my own boards but simply could not justify the cost and effort versus the results and price of commercially made boards nowadays. The biggest downside was through holes. I’d have to make a cnc machine to drill them all accurately. Not that I’m adverse to that, just not now.
Entry level is down and we have lots of Maker Spaces/Hacker Spaces where you can get all sorts of help.
That looks much better.
Not too bad for my first try. I had sent the Gerber files earlier to be made, but I had put down that it was one layer. Disappointment of them not approving the design gave way to being happy since I wanted to add that transistor and that error on my part put a hold on the process. New Gerber files uploaded this morning and I told them it had to be two layers. Waiting for their approval now. I might owe them a bit more money. I think it $12 for 20 pieces and $22 for shipping.
Again, thanks for all the assistance and not treating me harshly for being such a total noob. This has been a fun experience and I’ll certainly have another project in the not too distant future. I’ll be sure to post a picture of my OctoPi LightRing board and in situ when I get it back, soldered and all lit up.
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