Have you a tutorial for this ? because I see this function and made a quick test with *.png file but if it is possible from the DXF it’s better (better precision, no ?)
You found the tutorial…(the link @eelik posted).
DXF is the Best approach (using PNG, JPG, etc in the Converter will Not be clean and will take more time/effort than starting from scratch).
Thus, with DXF, simply import into Kicad, (or, Filling Wires can be done from different FreeCad Workbenches.)
Best to use the Part workbench, select the wires, Part>Make_Face
I have this message in FreeCad :
20:14:11 This function will be deprecated. Please use ‘convert_draft_texts’.
20:14:11 ----------------
20:14:11 Convert Draft texts
I try to upload a DXF for test but I have not the right and I find the Convert Draft texts function
I continue to search.
This is for a dashboard of a car?
I would redraw it in Kicad, and not worry very much about exactly duplicating the appearance of the traces. Just make sure the sockets are in the right location.
Yes it is. The issue is that the light socket are fixed directly to the flex pcb and dashboard box. I have also connector for the global info. I have not so much space behind the dashboard so I can’t have a big quantity of wire it’s why I would like to keep the flex pcb solution.
Of course, filling the wires (as in Make Face) only fills them. After that, you need to get it into Kicad … review/search posts…
EDIT: I repeat so as to not confuse you: Refer to my posted info (re the link above from @eelik ). That is all you need to do if your DXF is good.
At some point, moderator will enable you to post the file(s).
A variant from BlackCoffee’s suggestion. I think you can change the outline of a .DXF file in KiCad into the outline of a copper zone. It may be a quick fix, but it also has some disadvantages. Copper zones in Kicad are just a definiton of a “maximum size”, and they can get intersected by other things.
How many of these things do you want to make?
It may be a consideration to just create a very small “single connector PCB”, which also has some extra holes, and then hand wire the thing.
Are those light bulbs?
While you’re at it, why not replace them with LED’s?
Or at least take a step back and look at alternative methods to get to a decent result.
It looks like you’ve got bare copper connector fingers by folding a piece of flex over a plastic ridge. Something like that is hard to get reliable with DIY method.
Ok, normally the dxf is in good quality but made I made it from 2D drawing. I will try from 3D wire or face as if it is created like you show in FreeCad.
I would like to made at minimum 1 dashboard, but each light is one line/one wire. The only one who are grouped are the 6 big one (light for night) and general earth.
Yes it is light bulbs. I have in mind to replace by LED’s but the issue is that they provide too much light and they change the original colour of the original film. I need to have directly the LED’s in the good colour (not easy to find in good quality but it’s possible).
If at the end I do not achieve to make it in DIY or by a company, I will try it with wire, small PCB for connector and so on. No emergency on my side I have another dash in the car actually
It’s work. Not easy but it’s work. I hope that I do not forget if I need to do some modifications 
Thanks for your help
Next step check the production compatibility because I have only F.Cu, F.Mask, Edge.Cuts
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Nice!
You need some holes added as they don’t appear to have come through. Either edgeCut, suitably sized via or a through hole.
You are likely going to have to eyeball the centres 
Nice.
Can you give a short description on how you did it and what functions you used?
I would be inclining towards a “standard PCB”, which means creating two footprints, (with different sized holes for the lightbulbs) and the two pads. This is a bit more work, but I believe that knowing how to create footprints is an essential skill in KiCad.
It can also save you time in the long run. If for example you decide you want to replace the lightbulbs with LED’s, you can just create a footprint for the LED’s, and then with a few mouseclicks replace them all. (But the tracks probably need cleanup after that).
You can also add a circle or other graphics to such footprints to make eyeballing their location easier and more accurate. (Although the center locations are probably present in the DXF file)
Copper hole is the same size as edge cut, so it’s maybe due to that. As the copper layer is the top one you don’t see the other one.
I will test the width with a negative value to see if it improve the result. here it’s with 0.
I apply the tuto of @BlackCoffee
I have design all in CatiaV5.
To have the DXF, file I have put all the elements in different drawing (1 page = 1 layer in KiCad). So I have 1 DXF for the F.Cu, 1 for the F.Mask and 1 for the Edge.Cuts
I have not use FreeCad at the end because my issue is due of a mistake in the footprint import.
Issues and steps :
KiCad
- To create a footprint you need to create a library first and select it to be sure that you can save the footprint.
- I can now do File>New Footprint. I put the name and for my side, I select Other for footprint type. I don’t know the impact but we never know.
- When I import my dxf file I have use File>Import>Graphics… (I have not find the File>Import Outline From DXF of tuto, maybe because of the new version).
- At this stage I have another issue, because I directly select F.Cu for the import layer. When I do this, I always have only the outer line not the “painted face”. You need to use another layer like User.1 or what ever. In the Tuto it’s write that you stay by default and change later it’s very important to change the layer with a TextEditor because if you don’t do this it not work.
- I save my footprint to have the MOD file.
TextEditor
- With the TextEditor I have replaced all the text with the layer. Replace “(layer “User.1”) (width 0)” by “(layer “F.Cu”) (width 0)”
- I have take a long character text to be sure that I have the correct elements
KiCad
- Add a footprint, select your library and you footprint modified in TextEditor. Normally when you select it you can see that copper track “painted”.
To replace the light bulbs by LED I just need to replace it in the support because it’s w5w type light and B8.5D/T5.
The power of the dashboard is “easy” all the signal is the +12v and all the light have the same earth (-), so if the LED don’t work I just need to turn the support by 180°.
To center every layer I think I need to have a small cross in the center to be sure that it’s fully superimposed
Not sure to understand all your meanings but I hope that I reply correctly
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Kicad 6 has a very good SVG import function that can work with filled areas and different stroke widths.
It’s great for those kinds of problems.
I would work on the DXF in Inkscape (or something similar) until it looks right and then import the SVG into KiCad. then add outline, add holes etc. and maybe make a custom footprint for those weird round-square holes…
While I agree with @eelik that you won’t use most of the funktionality of Kicad (since you don’t have any schematic or even netlist) and there’s probably a way to convert graphics directly to gerbers, I can definitely se a benefit of using the PCB editor. Adding holes/vias at the right and places, working on te solder mask layer etc. is much easier this way…also being able to check your work in the 3d editor is super useful.
You’ve made good progress!
Re: ‘Import From Outline’
Yes, it looks like (because it did the same thing) it was changed back. I see it now shows only the same text.
These are for locating the dash board light globe sockets (two different sizes)… push the socket into the hole and twist to locate and connect.
They must have a surrounding area of mask free copper to complete the circuit.
Sitting in the vehicle, looking at the dash, the copper needs to be on the back side.
Some of the other holes are for positioning the board on locating lugs (can have mask), others supply power and signals to the various instruments (no mask). The tabs up top form plugs to attach to the wiring loom (no mask).
A fair amount of work to create the mask is required. See photo way up this thread.
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