Are you trying to specify some holes where you will solder wires that connect to other parts of your system?
If so, it is common to treat it as a connector. The schematic symbol will probably have a designator prefix of “Jx” (e.g., “J3”, “J12”, etc.). Since many input, output, and power connections are actually pairs (e.g., “+12V” and “Return”; “Signal Out” and “GND”; “Right IN”, “Left IN”, and “Common”, etc) a 2- (or 3-) position jack symbol may be appropriate.
I don’t know if KiCAD’s libraries include footprints specifically intended for soldered wire connections. It is easy enough to make such a footprint: It will be a through-hole component, with a generous pad size (to make soldering easy); the pad shape will probably be round or square (Consider using a particular shape to identify the “Ground” connections); the center hole should be sized to accommodate the expected wire gauge (not so small that you can’t get the wire through the hole, nor so large that the wire flops around in the hole with half a pound of solder securing it in place); and you might consider adding some stitching vias around the edge of the pad to increase mechanical strength.
Äh no?! There are proper footprints for THT resistors in the lib. You can however not simply move the holes around freely (ok you can but it is not really suggested to do so.)
See the Resistor_THT lib.
And in general i advice against soldering wires directly to the PCB. If there is any problem with the pcb then you will need to get out your solder iron just to change it. Use a proper connector or at least a screw terminal. Will make your life a lot easier.
Also remember that soldering wires means you weaken them (the solder gets sucked into the wire. The point where the solder ends and where pure copper starts is where it will break if there is ever bending load on the wire. This is why crimping is superior to soldering even for connectors.)
Correct. You can also choose a header pin with more than one connector. Say you have a two wire speaker output. You can choose one footprint with two holes. You don’t have to put the connector on the board but would have that option if you wanted it.
This is 100% the intent. Took me waaay too long to realize I should probably have a connector symbol, and then I was going to find/make large pad PTHs with via stitching, as you suggest. But it seems a good first question to make sure that’s the preferred approach.
You can add 1x1 connectors (one pin in symbol, one pad in footprint) for each wire. But if you put them all side by side it maybe be better to select one symbol/footprint which has as many pins/pads as you need and use 2.54mm pin header footprint. This will be compatible with pin header connectors for which you can find plug/wire cables. So it may give you more to choose from later.
The part you are talking about is very easy to make in the footprint editor but it depends on your comfort level at this point of the learning curve. You can always adjust an existing part too. But chances are there is something already in the existing libraries that fit your need. It will just take some looking to become familiar.
The symbols for BT1 and SW1 are custom creations of my own design. No, this approach isn’t fully compliant with ANSI standards but (in my opinion) it effectively communicates the design intent to the folks most likely to view this document in the future (myself included).
As already mentioned by @Rene_Poschl, I made the connections with pin headers rather than soldered wires. The footprints associated with my custom symbols are just standard footprints for pin headers - though I used right-angle headers due to limited vertical clearance, so the footprint courtyards are extended to accommodate the mating wire housing.
For soldering wires to PCB’s you can start with any connector which has the right number of THT pins for your design.
For example, here I have a 2 pin bent header with a pitch of 2.54mm:
Then hit ‘e’ for edit, and in the “Move and Place” tick on the “Free” radio button.
After that, you can feely move the individual pads of your connector:
Wires soldered directly to a PCB tend to easily break right at the edge where the solder ends and the loose strands begin. Especially if the wires move or there are vibrations.
There are 2 realatively easy fixes for this, and the goal is to not move the wire at exactly that point.
It can be done by putting 2 extra holes in the board, and then threading the ends of the (still isolated) wires through these holes before soldering, or you can glue them to the PCB about 10mm distance from the soldered PTH holes.
Sticking to standards unless you have a really good reason not to gives you options down the line. Also, if you share the project then it gives those folks options too.
If cost is not a big factor then I second Rene’s suggestion of using screw terminals. Another perhaps sexier option is to pick a widely-used connector like JST XH 2.5mm or PH 2mm and buy pre-crimped cables from Amazon, RC hobbyist sites, or AliExpress. Put a male header on your board (footprints exist in the standard libs, and Digi-Key sells the parts) and buy cable assemblies with a female at one end and stripped/tinned ends at the other, which you will solder to your jacks, batteries, footswitches and whatnot. Soldering wires to the PCB is bush league and always ends up causing some kind of inconvenience at best.
One thing that I see in that picture that isn’t overkill for screw terminals: ferrules. For stranded wire, crimping on ferrules before inserting into screw terminals will save you tons of headaches keeping individual wire strands under control.
Yes, but not really. Depends on the job. This board is meant to be a pro safe, quick, no fuss connect setup.
For the application at hand in here, a simple soldered-in screw terminal would do.
However there are still those screw-forces against the PCB. A downside with soldered in screw terminals is that they tend to twist quite a bit. Too much force and the PCB goes as well, just as in direct soldering to a PCB.
I’m quite clear on what you mean. Still those green connecters are mostly somewhat softish which turns them quite easily. Perhaps the soft ones are the usual cn copies.
If it would have to be a PCB screw terminal I’d rather go for the more solid versions.
Like those terminal blocks etc.
Those greenies might be suitable for ‘low end’ applications, however, experience shows, in professional environments people just go for it and expect connectors take just about any abusive treatment.
