I’m looking for an arduino schematic element and a related footprint. Note - i am NOT trying to make my own arduino - i simply want to plug on onto a set of headers (presumably upside down) and have the element to connect the control, power and other traces to.
Thank you to all and in particular to BlackCoffee. When i revised my search i found them too - all of them in fact, UNO, Nano, Mini… They key was to start with “nano” and work backwards.
But this raises a stange confusion i have. With both the footprint and schematic editor, either i get inconsistent actions (how can that be?) or it may be that there are too many ways to get into the footprints that are subtly different. Sometimes i can save a library element “as”. Sometimes not. Sometimes i get a utility with a search box. Sometimes not. Its partly me being a newbie ( and since this is not my job function i will always be so - its just letting me prototype more neatly and sanely than hand-building). But somehow i think it is also KiCAD’s crazy inconsistent UI and weak documentation.
Anyway thanks for so politely suffering my help questions
Now i think i need to somehow invert those to get the mirror-image that i’d plug an Arduino into, upside down. Correct? any further advice?
It wasn’t clear on just what you really want to do. I think you’re wanting to have sockets on a PCB to plug the Nano into.
If that’s correct - you’ll want Two parts called PinSocket and placed at pitch of 15.24.
Then, a Nano can plug into it.
Example below with a large gap to see what’s going on… Of course, you’ll need to learn to adjust the 3D footprint of the Nano to get it looking like what I show. But, that’s only for graphics as the Nano isn’t really part of the PCB (if just wanting something (sockets) to plug into).
[EDIT] Follow up… I use Nano’s a lot. I buy them for $4 so it’s not worth my time to use pin headers. I just solder the Nano to the PCB. Also, separating them from the header is not fun…
Yes, i want to plug an Arduino (was planning on an UNO initially) onto a evalutal board i am making. I am using it to control many functions and cheap-o Arduinos save me a lot of programming time and trouble. It will interface between remote control signals and some sensor logic on one hand, and various circuit control points (relays, control pins) on the other. Its likely overkill but i don’t care; its documented, works, sample sketches exist…
Now you suggest soldering it (NANO or UNO, who cares really, right?) directly. How? The NANOs i have seen are regular, flat PCBs with a set of holes on each side for pins. So I need… (drum roll, please) headers to attach it to the board. If they are pins and the PCB has receptacles (riser type) there is no work to separate them - just pull it off. I admit i don’t really need to to be removable though.
What am i not getting?
Really appreciate the voice of “been there done that”
An Uno will already have pin sockets so you would need to mount pin headers on your board and to have enough clearance, remember the Uno extends beyond the pin sockets, and don’t forget the USB/power cable. The Nano or clone may or may not have pin headers soldered on when sold. You might want to have a sample in your hand and see the 3D clearances rather than relying on photos.
Let me confirm back what i see. For a NANO, i would put a row of pads (0.1" spacing) per those on the NANO. The outline is in the library. I’d add headers that i can either solder it to, or put receptacles on the bottom of the NANO to plug on. It would then stand, on the headers, right-side-up on the main PCB.
Physical outline is not an issue - i have dimensions and sufficient space.
Edit mode. What exactly is that? In general my process would be to clone something, then edit it. I’m inferring that wont work - i need to edit it (danger!) and THEN save the copy? (seems kinda like jumping and then checking your chute, but…)
• If you’re editing a Part(meaning you selected it and double-click it, you’re in Edit mode and can only save it. If you’re not in Edit mode, you can select it, right-click and Save-As (with a new name).
• I buy two flavors of Nano’s: One without pins attached (don’t recommend) and One with pins attached (recommended).
Yes, there is a Bootloader pre-loaded on the Nano. But, depends on the Brand of Nano: The Arduino IDE needs to know which Bootloader is on the Nano. Thus, select the one for 328 chip or 328 Old Bootloader. The Nano’s I recommended use the Newer Bootloader - it’s just called the "Atmega 328p
Hey thanks for the slightly off-topic tip I actuality bought the exactly ones you suggested - they were within a buck or two (for 3) of the ones i was looking at and carry someone’s stamp of approval. As i move to volume I may choose something a bit cheaper, but for now i have some many fires to put out i want simple.
Chips, particularly Atmel/Microchip…, are fairly cheap and easy to program.
Screenshot examples show:
Atmel 328p (same as on UNO R3) with and without external XTAL.
Current cost of 328p is $1.90 at Digikey
Current cost of Tiny13 is $0.57
Use pinheaders, don’t solder directly to PCB.
I like 328p and Tiny13, 84 and 85 for low number of I/O
Can power directly with 3.3v or 5v. Can make a Programmer using Nano or UNO and breadboard. Lot’s of info on the Net about making programmer…
Example of one I recently made using Kicad with Nano for programming Tiny13, 84 and 85, below.