Sandpaper? file? sharp axe? 
Some connectors do finish 1/20" or 1.27mm from centre of hole.
Yes, that’s exactly what I meant, but my PCB does has the through holes for the pico, so theoretically, I should be able to put the pin sockets, there?
Yes, that is fine.
Sorry, I mistakenly thought you were looking for a motherboard also.
Ah, no worries.
So if I bought 2 of these, https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sullins-connector-solutions/PPPC201LFBN-RC/810192, and 1 of https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sullins-connector-solutions/PPPC031LFBN-RC/810175, and I solder them to my PCB, I’m good, right?
Yes, you are good, that will work. 
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Sweet, thank you so much
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As per my post higher up in the thread - use option #2 and add more models to 3D model of your Pico (you can have more than one, so in this case Pico + whatever connectors you prefer).
I use Pico from my RPI library and added pin header or one side and pin socket on the other side just to show the idea:
${KICAD6_3DMODEL_DIR}/Connector_PinHeader_2.54mm.3dshapes/PinHeader_1x20_P2.54mm_Vertical.step
${KICAD6_3DMODEL_DIR}/Connector_PinSocket_2.54mm.3dshapes/PinSocket_1x20_P2.54mm_Vertical.step
You may need to tweak their positions.
In my case I raised up the Pico by 2.5mm to make space for the header underneath, then rotate pin header and pin socket.
The result is as below:
Just a note:
If you plan to solder the pico directly to the PCB with the castellations, then put some spacer in between. Maybe a piece of kapton tape, or just paper will work. (Although paper is not ideal because of moisture absorption) Solder mask is not intended to serve as an isolation barrier, and putting PCB’s directly on top of each other sometimes does create shorts.
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Intention (as noted in OP) is to use the pico H which is pre-assembled with pins on the pico board. The whole thread is about whether sockets can be used on his mother board.
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Yes I know, but because the PCB also has added SMT pads to directly mount the Pico PCB I thought is was worth adding a reminder.
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Sort of a Summary:
Choice 1; Solder Pico directly to PCB via soldering the Castellations to the PCB’a SMD Pads (use non-conductive material under the Pico or, make a nearly-full-size cutout under the Pico
Choice 2: Solder Pico directly to PCB via Pin-Headers
Choice 3: Solder Pico_H directly to PCB
Choice 4: Solder Pin-Sockets to PCB and Plug the Pico_H into them
Sounds like this is the Choice you want…
(Regarding the Pin-Sockets: Buy long strips and cut/sand as needed… last image
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Actually, just thinking about it, why do I need pin sockets when literally my PCB has holes for the pins that are on the picoH, why not solder that straight to the PCB? I’m stupid lol. So I guess Choice 3 is the best option, and cheapest probably
Good question and my answer is:
Having soldered many (far too many) somewhat expensive items to a PCB only to find I need to change something then, to un-solder the parts have taught me to use Pin Headers.
In fact, I just finished an astronomy gizmo that uses a $45 Teensy4 and made sure to use a Header… Hard to see it but you can see some ‘black’ color around the base of the Teensy
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I fully agree with BlackCoffee here.
I also got a cup of that stuff between me and the keyboard right now.
I also prefer to use connectors for development boards in the prototype stage. Microcontrollers are quite fragile and they can get damaged too easily. If it’s in a socket, then you can easily replace it. I also always have more then one development board for the projects I care about. If I then have doubt, I can swap the board for another to compare.
I do not like the square pins with the high sockets though. I use thinner (looks like) gold plated round pins, and these fit into “turned” IC sockets (you can also buy these in single row).
That wouldn’t be part of a digital setting circle by chance would it?
@hermit Yes, and here’s my (quick, crudely made) YouTube video (which contains links to my previous DSC and 3D-printable parts…
ADDED: FYI - the only two things I would do to current design (for a Rev1) would be to add a 50k Trimpot to dim the TFT’s LED (BreadBoard example photo added below) and cleanup/reposition the Pad’s for the wires (just for cleaner/convenience). It works quite excellent, if I do say so myself 
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This was my automatic assumption for the original post. Black Coffee is not the only one to have “been there, done that”
You know, that’s a good point. Back to what I originally was gonna do. Thanks y’all
In the meantime, would you all be kind enough to give feedback on my project? My main thing as of right now if it will work in general, in the sense of nothing will kill itself.
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