Welcome to the community 
I see your 3D version is quite nice, although it doesn’t seem an exact copy of the board you posted.
I see two possible paths: (there may be others)
Hello JohnRob I thank you
In fact I would like to make a copy but not with a scan and directly on the copper…
I prefer to make a version build by professionnal pcb maker on internet"I don’t know if I can share link…"
The view on the schematic is the top of the board, and the original pcb board mesure :85mm x 115mm
I place the coponents but I don’t know how to make good track…
Could you help me please ? I can upload my kikad file if needed ?
I thank you
Google is your friend… search for “scan pcb image to gerber”
Note everything on the scan will be in copper. Likely no solder mask
Your best bet is to reverse engineer the PCB and create a schematic in KiCad.
Then assign foorprints to each components and create the PCB.
Once all the compnents are position to your liking then layout the tracks.
When all of this is completed you create a gerber file and send it to a PCB manufacturer.
There are few great videos on YouTube on getting started and the process from schematic to PCB to gerber.
If you have an image file (png, bmp…etc) you can use the Image_Converter Tool in Kicad.
Open the image in the tool (it’s Button says BMP but, ignore that bad description) and set the export file to User (or other).
Use the Threshold slider and the Picture type that yields the best clarity/etc
Set the Dimensions as needed to reflect desired size.
The Resulting output file is a Footprint, .mod file. Now, it will have the Track/Pads on the User/other Layer.
Now, edit the Footprint and double-click the Tracks, Pads…etc and select the desired layer to move them to… You can delete the undesired garbage/graphic items.
Example below
• original PNG image
• partial image of PNG in the Image_Converter tool
• Image on PCB with a couple of Traces transferred to Front Cu and Back Cu…
In the KiCad-nightly version, recently a function has been added to add a picture as a background image.
With this, you can load the picture you posted here, and use it as a template to draw a real PCB. At the same time you can “guestimate” what the schematic is, draw parts of the schematic, and then regularly update the PCB from the schematic, and fix discrepancies in the DRC.
At the end of that process you have both a working PCB and the schematic.
Do note though, that projects made in the KiCad-nightly version can not be opened in the stable version of KiCad. However, the current nightly is expected to become the stable KiCad V7 somewhere around the end of this year or early next year.
It is still not clear for me if you want to get a copy looking like that old PCB (tracks looks like someone painted them with hand) or just PCB with the same connections but not looking like this old one.
I would recommend keeping the approximate component layout as it was originally. Many years ago, many manufacturers used single sided (copper on only one side) pcbs. But if you are using a board fab house such as one which most of us are familiar with…two sided boards (copper on two sides) is a minimum. Of course you could etch away all of the copper on the top side, but doing so will not reduce the price. So be aware that certainly your through hole pads can have annular rings on top and bottom. And it might be advantageous to put some of your tracks on the top side.
In your shoes I would work out the schematic (it doesn’t look too complicated, maybe it’s even on a service manual you can find on the Internet), and then redo the board, but preserving approximate locations, which are usually based on signal flow. Having a schematic gives you more flexibility. For example you may have to accept a slightly different socket for the tubes. With a schematic and PCB it’s easy to adjust the footprint. With only a PCB and copper areas, tweaking is harder. And as BobZ says you may wish to use modern components which are smaller and have different form factors.
I tried to see if this is single-sided, but there are several tracks like this:
They could be solder holes for the wires to the potentiometer, input/output, switch, etc.
Those, circled in red pads, have mates.
Obviously components either never required or deleted before assembly.
I doubt there was much programing for the stuffing machine needed for those changes back then. 
I just ran a search in google with your text:
the first hit hat the service manual with the schematic:
I hope this helps
Hello Everybody I thank you
I’m trying to make it with the Image_Converter Tool in Kicad.
I see somes parts in the circuit are not used, I will not keep them.
I’ll be back after my essay
This is what I obtain but it is not great 
I import the file and choose the good size for the final pcb 85x110mm,
I can not upload my kikad file it say “new user can not upload file” but this is what I obtain
Can someone help me and make just the begining "not all otherwise I will never learn " of the circuit please ? and I will finish it, this make me understand
the two tubes use 9 pin socket and are valve ECC83 in kikad.
I thank you
Your best bet is to reverse engineer a schematic from your image and then use that to draw a new PCB (either with the same component arrangement, or with a more modern, compact one).
I recommend against doing it without the schematic. And creating a new original PCB layout is probably easier than meticulously trying to copy that old design.
Thanks, ultimately I’m trying to make it a new version based on the old.
Could you just tell me please what track width is good for that amp ? I choose 3.8mm is it ok ?
because when I work on the tube socket, 3.8mm seems too big…
here is the start, as you could see, track on socket tube is too close ?
otherwise where can I set in kikad the size of my final pcb please? “for manufacure” because it must be 85mmx110mm"
I thank you
Track width is determined by the current flowing through it. I use mainly 0.25 mm track width for signal lines and 1mm for power tracks in microprocessor based PCBs.
You can base on how wide are tracks in your original PCB.
You draw the PCB borders at Edge.Cuts layer.
You don’t need tracks as wide as 3.8 mm. While voltages may be high, currents in pre-amps with tubes such as the the ECC83 will only be in the milliamps so the default widths will be fine as the resistances will have no effect on your circuit (you can calculate them if you wish, using the calculator in KiCad), and you can increase them a bit as you have the space.
The exception is the heater lines. Those carry 150 or 300 mA I forget the exact figure, depending on whether the elements are in parallel or series for the ECC83 (6.3V or 12.6V respectively.
The size of the board is set by the edge cut lines that define the boundary of the board. See the KiCad documentation.
Depends on how much current you need to handle, but that’s very big compared to typical PCBs I usually work width. 1mm is usually maximum for high power tracks. You can use the “track width” tab in the KiCad PCB Calculator tool to calculate the right width given options such as current, conductor length and allowed temperature rise. If you don’t know the parameters, measuring the old tracks is probably your best bet.
