The heat considerations are so severe that some designs even go for aluminium core PCBs.
Basically yes. In the reverse direction (- to +) it blocks below the zener voltage, above that conducts as well.
As you have drawn the zener in you schematic, the current will only flow when your input voltage is over 13Volts and only up to about .01 Amps, but your LEDs need several Amps for full brightness.
If the rest of your circuit worked, the zener would fail, probably short, then go bang, or at least pffft.
I have to say: pretty ambitious high power multi colour blinky (once, if at all) project. 
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Ahhh, now you do understand… what a relief 
Ok, let’s behave. Or at least pretend to… 
Yes sir,
Sits on hands.
Good boy, good boy
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I made a pcb and it burned damn…
The road to becoming an expert is too far
Just call it a LEB.
I am very surprised that being at your level at that road you made PCB without trying first to connect your elements experimentally to check if your schematic works.
Long time ago (1977) I got the idea to make a circuit to switch on/off lamp at my desk by clap. During one afternoon I made the whole circuit using absolutely no PCB. All elements were located at newspaper connected in air. To not destroy elements (I had not a lot of them) I didn’t cut their legs. Germanium transistors I had those time had legs about 6 cm length. Whole my construction looked like a spider taking up half of my shelf and worked.
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Because I am lazy and carefull I used LDD-350LW from Mean well. A lot easier to get it working.
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