But it is a 2 layer board so there is no solid GND plane like a 4 layer board has. You made suggestions to have a large GND area, which is good. But it’s no GND plane.
It is called having a large GND area under the power components given the currents involved.
[EDIT] At the top of the board he created two GND areas on both the top and bottom sides of the board and the connection of the bypass capacitors can be made as you suggested with the document you mentioned.
Thanks, I have to be a little more careful what the translator is up to.
The Google translator works better than what I am using now in “Vivaldi” but it has been a while since problems of praivacy and invasiveness I have tried as far as possible not to use google products.
True,
for GND zones it is perhaps better to use “area” or “zona”, “livelli” level is correct for the various layers of the PCB ,
“Planta” no in Italian can refer to trees or the geometry of a house.
It is better that I study technical English so I can make myself understood.
As said in this thread or another here on the forum with linguages are a donkey, even in mine.
I think it’s called dyslexia, not serious but annoying.
I have difficulty learning a foreign language.
Ah, I deleted my post too late . I realized pianta is nonsense and was not sure about livello. And it is ridiculous that I - being A2 maximum in Italian - make Italian suggestions.
I could not open the modifide files with KiCad 6.07
It was possible with the beta 6.99, but then I get a lot of other errors, and all the diodes 3d parts have diapered:
This is how it looks for me.
Ok I will try to change as you sugest.
What does the capner the D-sub do?
Is it for stable pover to 3V3?
For the 330uF capacitor on the 3V3 I assumed that the power input connector was the D-Sub 15pins
No no it comes from ItsyBitsy M0 Express. I hope i feed 5V to VBAT port on the GIPO, that then feds 3v3 to all the signals.
[EDIT]
Apperently I have forgotten to power ItsyBitsy M0 Express.
Also how do you decide size of caps?
Starting to get rely worried, what the heck have I done, The USB are suppose to be to the left.
Why is not the power input down to the left?
I think I used this file, and made my on footprint from it: GitHub - adafruit/Adafruit-ItsyBitsy-M0-PCB: PCB files for the Adafruit ItsyBitsy M0
I can see what I have done… so depressing… have to re do everything around the GIP plus new foot print.
If anyone have any suggestion how I could fix a new correct footprint it would be much appreciated!
the question is can I do like this?
My mistake,
I forgot to use Kicad 6.0.7.
Install 6.99 just to see what I did then update your project with kicad 6.0.7.
The capacitor on 3v3 put it closer to the input connector.
I established the value of the capacity based on my experience.
You should once the card has been created, test the noise level on the 3v3 with an oscilloscope and if the readings on the potentiometers are stable.
In order to establish whether the prototype is correct or whether it is necessary to insert components with different parameters or add circuits to fix the problems.
Since you have not used precise voltage references, analog readings are not so critical for your project, I think and as a result you could use smaller values of capacity.
Normally I make test cards to undergo the complete project in order to correctly size the circuits before making the complete board.
Some values of the card components must be chosen based on both hardware and software tests.
You turned JP12 upside down you have to rotate it 180 degrees and redo the links.
But that is the output connector?
I meant near the output pin of the MCU board but since MCU powers the rest of the card it goes well near the output connector.
But since I now understand where the 3V3 comes from, the capacitor can have a smaller capacity like 10uF - 47uF .
What is connected to the “REMOTE_INPUT1” connector?
[EDIT] I think I understand.
They should be switches.
Minimum current absorption.
I meant near the output pin of the MCU board but since MCU powers the rest of the card it goes well near the output connector.
But since I now understand where the 3V3 comes from, the capacitor can have a smaller capacity like 10uF - 47uF .
Perfect then I know.
What is connected to the “REMOTE_INPUT1” connector?
There will be another pcb, a remote control to set min, max values on the outputs. That is, how PWM should behave on the different outputs, in order to be able to match different types of light sources such as LEDs and light bulbs, different manufacturers of LEDs, different voltages, etc.
The idea is that this remote control should be connected at the time of adjustment, then the values should be saved in eprom and you should then be able to disconnect the remote control without anything happening.
In principle, the remote control only consists of 12 buttons connected to a multiplex chip, and an encoder, LEDs that indicate which value to adjust.
I haven’t solved the code for this yet. But I hope I get help with this.
I have solved most of it with the program XOD which works with IsyBitsy M0 Express.
[EDIT] I think I understand.
They should be switches.
Minimum current absorption.
And LED and an encoder.
The D-sub “POT_INPUT1” Is for controlling PWM signal.
What do you think about this to get a larger uninterrupted ground plane to the mosfets? Or could I get a even larger ground plane to the mosfets? I try to put as much of the tracks as possible on the F.Cu side.
How do you think I should rout the racks, like the white areo to the left, or to the right?
What do you think about this to get a larger uninterrupted ground plane to the mosfets? Or could I get a even larger ground plane to the mosfets? I try to put as much of the tracks as possible on the F.Cu side.
I would have done the opposite.
Put the + 5V tracks that go you relayed on the B_Cu, like this
I drew some + 5v tracks so that they stay over the switches.
I also moved the 10K resistance that was placed between the gate and GND
If you continue with this way of drawing you are with a very large GND area compared to before.
Then near K8 GND pad put a series of vias to make a good connection with the GND area on B_Cu.
It is possible to add other vias between each relay so as to also use part of the GND area on B_Cu.
You put in a few but you can put more.
Adjust the track width to 0.5mm or if you can’t switch to 0.3mm → 1A .
[EDIT] The 5V tracks you adjust the position, I only put them to show how to do it. they can pass near the large tracks on the B_Cu side
[EDIT] If you can move the fuse and switch block upwards, making the width of the GND area more or less equal to the width of the 5V zone which must be reduced as it now has a width of about 60mm by adding the parts on the two faces.
Get a width that allows you to have 32A .
In addition, you can draw a trace of a solder mask over the GND F_Cu area horizontally with length of the section where the relays are positioned which you can fill with tin by increasing the copper section. Or welding a copper wire.
This solder mask mode can also be applied to other high current tracks.
I have a really hard time understand what you mean.
Can you share the file with what you changed, maybe a video?
How wide should I make the 5V zone?
Also all the diodes 3D part disappeared?
Also if I understand correctly there is only one place where there will be high current, for each mosfet ther will be less.
Also how did you do the soler mask?
I’m sorry if you don’t understand.
It’s just a photo of a part of the 3d card where I show how you could recover space to enlarge the GND area .
I haven’t changed anything.
In the previous photos I had shown what I would have done to recover GND area .
On the forum there is a lot of information on how to use kicad, take some time and then reread the whole thread you will have a clearer idea of what needs to be done to better improve the card.
Now I think I have changed all the things you told me.
What do you think:
Dimmer project5.zip (3.1 MB)
Now I think I have changed all the things you told me.
What do you think:
Very well.
Now already making the pcb remains a conductive layer above the uncovered copper parts that you have traced with the welding mask. (little stuff, jlcpcb had told me how many um but I don’t remember, not many maybe 5 or 10 um)
Then if you need a layer tinning on the entire track and overheating problems of the areas and tracks, you shouldn’t occur.
3 questions :
-
In the “LED OUTPUT1” connector how much current can pass through a pin ?
-
When you realize the card, check how the mosfets are heated both in continuous operation and in pwm to a current of 5A
-
What is the pwm frequency?
How much do you think I will gain if I just fill that part with solder, not any copper rod just solder.
I figured out how you hade done the maskin to expose copper.
What do you think of the solution with a 8 pin connector to feed it all?
I also looked at one 6 poles and pitch of 7.62, with 41A per contact.
Then I would definitely have head room.
But dubel or trippel price.
Have not figured out what value of the capacitor. Just copied yours.
Don’t know wher to buy either.
I don’t known if I will have any cross talk with the long tracks?
Can I protect the pcb if you by chans connect wrong cables on the input? Or will the price just skyrocket?
If you discover any other improvements would be nice?
Example. Expose the tracks on the bottom to and from the relay, and fill them with solder?
They have som kind of gold plating. I like that but I don’t know if it’s bad to poot that on?
Also can you se why the 3d symbol diaperd from the diods?
Best regards.
How much do you think I will gain if I just fill that part with solder, not any copper rod just solder.
I figured out how you hade done the maskin to expose copper.
What do you think of the solution with a 8 pin connector to feed it all?
I also looked at one 6 poles and pitch of 7.62, with 41A per contact.
Perfect
Then I would definitely have head room.
I don’t understand what it means.
Have not figured out what value of the capacitor. Just copied yours.
-
For the capacitor on the 3v3 since you have no space problems put 100uF 6v3.
-
For capacitors on power supplies use 1000uF 6v3 on + 5v, 1000uF 16V on 12V and 1000uF 35V on 28V .
If you overlap footprints with a different pitch, you can also mount capacitors of higher capacity if necessary, without having problems. This is a starting point then when you test the card you see how it behaves.
Don’t know wher to buy either.
I don’t known if I will have any cross talk with the long tracks?
I don’t want to advertise I don’t hit anything with lcsc and jlcpcb but normally I take the material and PCBs from them.
Since I have been a longtime customer if I order pcbs and then electronic components refund me a shipment.
The prices are very good.
The problem I see are the long tracks that drive the mosfet gates.
If mosfets are used in CC there are no problems but in high frequency pwm perhaps a mosfet-driver located near the mosfet would be required.
If you have tested the N-DRIVE Shield card well and it works properly you should have no problems.
Can I protect the pcb if you by chans connect wrong cables on the input? Or will the price just skyrocket?
Use 8 SS54 diodes on each relay in this way.
I hope the Diode fuse is founded first, it would be a nice test to do.
Example. Expose the tracks on the bottom to and from the relay, and fill them with solder?
No use, with the track you wrote they can pass 7A with the standard parameters.
They have som kind of gold plating. I like that but I don’t know if it’s bad to poot that on?
Also can you se why the 3d symbol diaperd from the diods?
What do you mean, I don’t understand.