Gerber files not recognized by the manufacturer

At least, a clear labelling is highly recommended here.

Hello dhaillant,
Thanks for the advice, but what do you mean by ā€œcopper poursā€?

Pascal

The copper pour is the ā€œgroundā€ plane, the copper fill that you donā€™t remove between tracks.

Itā€™s convenient for routing ground for example, or for shielding purpose etc, but here, as you use Mains voltage, you definitely want to avoid possible shortcuts. And having a copper pour, flowing around the exposed pads of J4, or PS1 isnā€™t a good idea at all.

In fact you want to maximise the distance between Mains and any other conductive part in your device.

If the distance is small, a contamination (water or anything else) could let the dangerous voltage access to the ground plane. And, as your ground plane is also probably connected to, for example, your chassis, you guess what could happen next.

Iā€™m not sure but thereā€™s also a minimum distance to respect between each pin of your Mains input connector. Maybe you should check the regulations for the place your device is intended to be used.
Modify the ā€œclearanceā€ parameter in KiCad to get an idea of the separation.

What are the 2 holes under ā€œMasterā€ for (especially the one close to PS1)? If you plan to use screws here, watch out for the diameter of the screw head, it might touch the PCB, right where the Mains track isā€¦ If tight it too much, and damage the soldermaskā€¦

Anyway, if you look at PSU PCBs, youā€™ll be able to see how itā€™s done. No copper pour, sometime slots to increase distance, clear indication of where the danger is, etc.

SEE DOWNLOAD OF REVISED VERSION IN LATER POST.

Revised Starter Card as per advice.
Copper pour is now on bottom trace (B.Cu) and linked to GND
and excludes AC INPUT area which is upper trace (F.Cu).
(Through Hole ā€˜Viasā€™ for upper/lower trace connects are PTH pads.)
I would ā€˜double-checkā€™ net for ā€œJ1ā€ as it appears reversed ā€¦
P.S.
If the Master Device is metal/conductive simply change the AC input traces to bottom.

Your AC-Lines seem to be a bit close together, i would recommend spacing them with a 4mm clearance. That means you need a larger connector and probably more space.

While 230V needs less, even when you consider the peak of about 330V, but you 4mm is standard. For commercial electronics they do HiPot Tests where the space of 4mm is recurred. Even when you use just 110V, the 1mm gap at the connector is a bit close.

Here is the latest revision with Molex 4.2mm AC Power Jack as per advice.

carte_de_demarrage_rev2.zip (277.7 KB)

I ALSO DELETED THE PREVIOUS POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS VER.s DOWNLOADS!

carte_de_demarragee_revpcb

Hello invntefx,
Iā€™m back after two days of dealing with some complicated domestic issues, sorry.
Thank you very much for your work and advice.
I had indeed neglected the problem of 230V connectionsā€¦
The component that will be fixed on the top of the board is an external relay.

There will be in fact two cards, one ā€œmasterā€ the other ā€œslaveā€.
The relay will be mounted one way or the other depending on the version, for reasons of layout and wiring of the final product.

The slave version will have only the relay, the power supply and the connectors.
The connectors are in principle tested with a voltage of 500 VDC, which could make them suitable for this prototype application ?

Volts are tested by voltage usually by breakdown of insulation, but the load current is calculated by amperes according to another dependence on the size of the track and the thickness of copper

You will need to know how much current you expect the board to ā€˜seeā€™ and then give yourself plenty of headroom, then as @m852 pointed out adjust your Track width and copper weight accordingly and calculate the required fuse value. Insulation breakdown of 500v DC is fine at least in the UK but you might want to check the rules as you canā€™t be too careful when mains voltages and currents are involved, much better to err on the side of cautionā€¦hope that helps :smiley:
:mouse:

I wanted to add so that all this does not blush)) Although I think everyone sooner or later bluster)) then it is advisable to turn this whole thing on through an incandescent lamp for the first time

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