7805 error in electrical rules

I think this double negative discussion is suitable for general consumption. I will have mine with a chicken sandwich and cold beer. :slight_smile: But seriously, Piotr’s explanation of double negative makes me
somewhat despondent or at least appreciative of the difficulty of some ESL situations.

If I say: You do not like radishes, do you? (And assuming that I am correct
)
Do you say “Yes I do not like radishes” or “No I do not like radishes.”
Americans will usually say the second. But I think many ESL speakers will say the first.

:musical_note: Yes, we have no bananas
We have no bananas today :musical_note:



US song

Probably because they were told that double negation means not negation so even if in their first language they will say the second trying to be correct they will say the first.
I suppose that ‘I don’t know nothing.’ you understand as ‘I know something.’ but as I said in Polish such construction means: 'I don’t know anything.".
Anything not always is replaced in Polish by our nothing. In some constructions it is replaced by our something (=coƛ).

A number of observations:

  • you usage of 10nf // 100nf is somewhat redundant. I beleive you read that if you have a large capacitor (good for lower frequencies) you need to add a smaller capacitor (good for high frequencies) This is the case, however in your circuit the 2200”F is the large one and either the 10n or 100n can be the small one.

  • The L7805 can be used as you have shown. The “gnd” pin passes a little more current that and LM317 but I don’t think it will matter in your usage. However you will not be able to control to a voltage lower than 5V where the LM317 can go down to ~1.25 volts.

  • The L7805 is current limited, the 1A fuse is not going to do much.

  • The 1n4148 is too small for the function of protecting U1, I would suggest as a minimum a 1N400x where X can be 1,2,3 or 4. This digit signifies the maximum reverse voltage of the part where 1 = 50V and 4 = 600V. Any version will be fine for your circuit.

Now the real questions


  1. How much current do you expect to draw? For each watt of power lost in U1 it will rise 50 °C. The MAX limit is about 150°C so:
    Power = current x voltage
  • voltage = 12 -5 = 7 volts across U1
  • MAX power = (150 - 25)/50 = 2.5 Watts

Max current = 2.5W/ 7v = 350 ma.

So for us the help you build a functional device we need to know more about you usage how you plan on mounting U1 etc.

  1. What is your 12V source? C4 is very large if you 12V is coming from a wall adapter. However may not be enough if coming from a rectified AC.

BTW: Like most of life, detail design is messy. Nothing is as easy as slap it together and it works.

John

Nothing is as easy as slap it together and it works.

Yes, that schematic screams toss in everything including the kitchen sink, but forgot to analyse the water flow.

Mainly to second what you say. A bunch of good advice. As I think @paulvdh mentioned there may be significant differences in 78XX 3 terminal regulators, but my experience with (probably old Motorola or maybe National Semiconductor or Fairchild) parts is that putting a resistor in the ground leg often does not work. So I would advise caution about doing this in a production design. Adding a schottky diode (maybe BAT54 or 1N5819) with anode to ground pin and cathode to regulator output might help prevent the latchup malfunction that I have seen.

I have described my experience:

But I would not expect that problem with 100 ohm resistor as in this schematic.

But you can certainly insert a diode with an appropriate forward drop voltage.

I thank everyone for their contribution. I was able to follow the discussion up to a certain point. Then it became difficult for me. Thanks again

If you still have questions or can point to something you are unclear about, please post it. From my side it is sometimes difficult to communicate technical characteristics with I don’t know the technical foundation of the OP.

Off topic but using linear regulator like 7805 with 12V input and 1A current is not very good engineering, because the 7805 will get hot. Sauna is not for ICs.
I would use something like this (a switching type)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/recom-power/R-78E5-0-0-5/2834904
There are plenty of models from different manufacturers. What I know they can’t be adjusted like 7805.

And there are adjustable switching regulators, but they need more components than 7805.

And snorting diode vapor will not rectify anybody’s headache.

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Reminds me of days gone by


Nothing like the dark brown smell of a shorted mains transformer early in the morning! :smiling_face_with_tear:

I think failed electrolytics and burnt FR-4 is worse for me.

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But some failed electrolytics (generally small ones) succeed at something which humans cannot do. They get taller.

Some people get colon cancer. I think someday they’ll find that I have colophony cancer. :scream_cat:

I don’t know about
 I see small humans get taller every day :slight_smile:

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Tree rosin?

Adding meaningless text here to pass the 20 character minimum


Secreted pine tree rosin dissolved in alcohol (not beer) makes quite a good inert flux for soldering.
That could be the reason for @retiredfeline 's comment, unless, of course, he chews on the branches whilst swinging through the trees.
Various cats of the feline variety have been known to spend time in trees. :smile_cat:

I used to joke that microphony is a tiny con-man.

First stage valves in amplifiers sometimes were fitted with spring loaded shields to prevent microphony from noise or the output speaker. My dad used to say my music was noise so same thing in that case. :rofl: